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TB 152 gives guidance. If your flue isn't sealed it's classified as At Risk and should be switched off... https://registeredgasengineer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/TB152_Correctly_securing_and_sealing_horizontal_chimney_terminations.pdf

Some boilers look for the pressure jump and won’t start without it. Many of the pros on here will know exactly what I’m talking about and what a pain the f code associated with it can be to fix…

Basic WC is quite limiting as it sets the flow temp rigidly according to the outside temp. This means when heating from cold you have a low flow temp and the house takes ages to warm up. It’s more suited for properties that are permanently heated. Advanced WC is a very different thing but not...

You’d normally link across from the programmer live to the commons

Even if the system was new a flush should have been done. New rads always have loads of crap in them. The good news it it’s almost certainly just the boiler that needs doing

For the last ten minutes the return temp is basically the stored hot water temp. Looks like you have it as good as it gets with on/off controls (y)

Either the heat exchanger has a coating in the S1 area or possibly it’s a faulty casting. They all carry test kits, did he take a sample of system water for analysis?

It would be a possibility if the hot water had problems as well. As it doesn't I'd say it was very unlikely

Traditionally felt lagging would be wrapped around both pipes as far as possible and cable tied on. https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/davant-felt-pipe-insulation-wrap-roll-grey-101-6-mm-x-7315-2-mm-fpcn6/p/877991#fo_c=2832&fo_k=01b3c86ab7b9039d4fdeb39ad7a0a1ec&fo_s=gplauk

Hmmm they have been using that software since 2015. Would be a little late for a bug to rear it's head now... Will be interesting to see what Gary says

If you call them out they will be able to check it on the laptop

It would seem that everything is working ok on test. The results you have usually indicate a dirty heat exchanger on the heating side.

Ok to test the pump etc properly put the boiler into test mode by pressing the spanner and + at the same time. it should come up with ‘h’ on the display and the boiler should run hard for 20 minutes. lets us know if the flow pipe gets hot…

Time to check parameters 1 and 3 and turn the pump up. what values are 1 and 3?

Take the case off. Set the programmer to off then set parameter 2 to 1 Flick it between 1 and 0 a few times and you should hear the pump start and stop That will run the pump on its own without the boiler firing and you will be able to see and hear if the pumps working (big oblong plastic...

As it's a Powermax It's likely to be installed on twin flue in the middle of the house. Can it be resited to an outside wall?

It's to do with whether the system is pressurised or whether you have a small header cistern in the loft. You can't run the Xclusive open vent

Oh, sorry I thought you was asking for advice. I didn't realise you was just trolling. Perhaps you should write to WB and all the other manufacturers that specify one and show them where they are going wrong. You might get a medal...

If they are prematurely failing it’s usually either electrolytic corrosion or excessive pressure. Dielectric coupling will take care of the corrosion and an mini expansion vessel will take stop excessive pressure rise that’s usually caused by a non return valve in the water meter stopping...

@ianmcd or @tonybhoy are probably more familiar than most with tenement layout