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joking aside doing diy will save you money,if you feel confident enough and to be honest there are jobs around the house that you could attempt.But to do these jobs you will have to invest in a basic tool kit. :)

not really ,but the bump will not go away, hope you got the leak fixed,otherwise the damage will get worse .

It seems to me ,that theeasiest way you could/should tackle diy jobs is to get someone else to do it for you.

Besides screwing bits of board/ply to the back of the treads ,he willalso have to fix the bits of board/ply to the tread above maybe he could sandwich them between 2 stripes of wood fixed to the underside of each tread.Sounds like such a simple job you could try it yourself.If you are not sure...

You are welcome :)

another half an hour of my life wasted,Next time you ask a question on a forum,dont forget ,if you get a reply someone has taken time to do that.So a thakyou would not go a miss .Secondly why did you not sauce some pictures before handdid you exspect someone to do that for you.

the most effect joint is amortise and tenon joint.step1 is to mark out for a mortise in thedoor stop part of the door,the mortise should be half the thickness of this part of the frameand should be set at the edge of the rebate the distance between of the 2 moritises should be the width of the...

screw*** are doing ahitatchi 18v wih 2 battries for£90 well worth that price,other than that you can get a hitatchi 14v with 3 battries for less than £120.

It would have been better to 5"x2"s at 400mm centres,but I exspect he has set out the floor levels out ,to cater for 4"x2"s,at the very least he should put some joist hangers around the ends of all the trimming he has done around the doorway.He should double up on the trimmer that is running...

Well Martyc,Itwas only my opinion based on the the dimensions you gave which I beleive was 10.5 long.Even on a 8ft span a 3" lintel would not be good enough ,because the length in relation to thedepth would cause the lintel to sag or break

As if the Yak would give a **** anyway.They are are a bit like Thia girls love you till you have gone then it is on to the next one

I would not of thought that 2 three inch lintels would be suitable for that span ,as they would be acting as individual lintets .Isuggest a single concretelintel of the right proportions for this span or a catnic lintel

Isay sucker,hope GOD was looking ! :)

i would have leant on the bmw across the road for that picture

my umbrella

It will be because must people reccemend 12.5 thick plasterboard for ceilings as it is more rigid went fixed ,than the 9.5 board

:oops: Errr I have not been well lately

Believe or not the 2 differences are :- the price and the size :wink: Sorry for that No it really just convenience of size really.May I suggest you do your ceiling and partion out 8"x4" sheets of plaster board as this will cut down on the amount of joints

If you are going to fix with nails/screws the boarding down make sure they are not to long that they will go through the old boards.Wouldn't like you to hit any cables /pipes. Igot to say though for the sake of a bit of extra work ,I cannot see why you can not take the boards up .I suppose it...

It might be a good idea to set the depth of the saw ,to the exact thickness of the flooring .Which no doubt you have already thought of :wink: