16 amp oven

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Hi, I've just bought a new Bosch oven which needs a 16 amp connection, the old one was just plugged into a socket with a 13 amp plug.

I have been reading old posts on here and think the situation for me is not so bad but I am not 100% sure what to do. What I have is a separate circuit from the consumer unit maked 'Cooker' protected with a 32 amp fuse (marked B32). I haven't checked the diameter of the wire but am assuming its going to be one suitable for the 32 amp load (will check any way). Then above the oven there is a plate with a red switch to turn the over off paired with a switched socket on the same plate. Then below the counter there is just a bog-standard 2 gang socket plate where the old oven was plugged in one with 13 amp plug and the gas hob was plugged into the other (just for the ignitor I guess).

So I'm assuming that everything is ok for a 16 amp oven up until the plate with the red oven on/off switch. Can I assume that the red oven switch plate is ok for 16 amp or should I replace it with something like this? http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-2-gan...13a-plug-socket-brushed-stainless-steel/96324 ?

And I assume that someone has then just run standard household electrical wire down from the red switch plate to the standard 2 gang socket plate, since I doubt the thicker wire suitable for 16 amps would wire into a standard socket. So I think I need to replace the wiring between the plate with the red switch down to something else to replace the 2 gang socket plate. Probably a 20amp Flex Output plate for the oven and a 3 amp FCU for the hob based on my reading here. I can't find a plate with both of these things on it so it looks like I'm going to have to cut out the plaster to make 2 places for the 2 seperate outlet plates and be left with a big hole where the 2 gang socket was. Not a big deal I guess since its under the counter. Have I got it right or am I barking up the wrong tree?
 
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I would assume that a suitable cable would already be in place between the cooker control unit switch/isolator (red oven switch) and the double gang socket. This would need verifying but I would suspect this cable is part of the original 32A circuit and expect a 6.0mm2 T&E to be there.
So no need to alter that!

There are a number of ways you can configure/alter the set to make it suitable.
I would personally remove DG socket outlet, pull out the DG backbox (I assume this is metal and sunk into wall?), then replace this with dual back box. A little extra work will be required to sink this box as they a slightly longer and normally a little deeper than the standard 25mm DG socket backbox.
To this you can then fit a cooker oulet plate and then link in a single gang socket for gas hob or alternatively a 3A FCU.

You could also consider reducing the size of the protective device in the fuse board from that of 32A to a 16A one.
 
Please also remember 16a sockets are the equivalent to our 13a standard in europe. Your oven may work perfectly safely and properly on a 13a supply. If you know the wattage of the oven you can work it out - basically 13a will power up to 3200w.

kind regards,

DS
 
Swapping back box to one of these you can fit a single socket and cooker outlet next to each other. A double connection unit
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does give more room but likely not really required so standard cooker connection unit and socket would make a neat job.
 
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Is this double socket perhaps already two singles? Often see that these days. Either a cooker outlet and a single socket, or a blanked one. Thinking ahead...
 
I would agree with dead short often you can get away with using a 13A plug even when the rating exceeds 3kW however not sure if one really wants to do that.

Any fuse gets hot that's how they work and in a 13A plug at 3kW it needs plenty of free air to ensure it remains at a temperature where no damage happens. The fused connection unit (FCU) does seem to radiate heat better than a plug.

Of course some makes are better than others but likely over time at 3kW it will fail. The most likely time is when cooking for a long time and that often coincides with a public holiday like Christmas when even buying a 13A fuse can be a problem.

Personally there is always a way around the problem even if I run out of fuses there will be something I can steal one from.

My son ran his house for 6 months on a single 13A socket. He was re-wiring and was using extension leads galore until ready to switch on. He had a pack of 10 fuses and there are 5 left. All when when his wife did something like running washing machine and fan heater together. But no plug was damaged and it did show how much overload you can get away with.

So it's down to a risk assessment are you willing to risk a fuse may blow at the most inopportune moment? It's not danger your looking at it's inconvenience.
 
Hi! Thanks, the double back box is a really good idea and will save me a lot of hassle I hope. Going to go to Screwfix and get one and also this for the hob: http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-13a-dp-switched-fused-connection-unit-with-flex-outlet-white/13479 and this for the cooker http://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-...id=61607#product_additional_details_container

There didn't seem to be much choice. I'd rather have 45 amp capable plates with lower rated fuses in them

I don't think that the double socket is 2 singles at least the front plate is one unit. I haven't taken it off yet
 

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