7.5 KW shower

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by marb, 18 Feb 2012.

  1. marb

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    I need to replace my Gainsborough 2000 7.5 KW shower as the solenoid has gone and it makes a funny buzzing noise producing hardly any heat or flow.

    The switch in the cupboard is jammed on and I can't turn it off to isolate it before changing. How can I fix this ?

    Also, I need advice on buying a new shower to replace this one. There are Tritons and Galaxy that seem to come out in the searches. I don't want to pay much more than £50-80 if I can help it.

    Any recommendations will be appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Taylortwocities

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    You can switch off the relavent MCB in the consumer unit. Use a test device to ensure it is really off and lock the MCB off.

    Read this FAQ on safe isolation
    http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7553&start=0

    Its even better to remove the shower's cables from inside the consumer unit. Only do this with the main switch OFF!


    They are much of a muchness. Don't think of going much bigger than 7.5kW though as your existing wirng may not be big enough.

    Have alook at where the water feed is in your existing shower and buy one that takes the water feed in the same place, otherwise you'll have plumbing to do.

    You'll need a new shower switch too, by the sound of it!
     
  3. ban-all-sheds

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    When you buy the new shower, get a new switch as well.

    Turn off the power, check for dead, replace the switch.
     
  4. Taylortwocities

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    I wish I had remembered to suggest that :!:
     
  5. ericmark

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    I would change the switch first maybe that's the whole problem?
     
  6. 17thman

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    as Eric says, change the switch first, there may be a loose connection which has over heated the rocker and the overheating of the copper conductor causes an even poorer connection with the deposits generated by arcing.

    Should you want a cheaper shower, Aquatronic (sold by Wickes) are made by Triton. Usually around £30 quid cheaper than the branded ones.
     
  7. marb

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    Thanks folks. That's good advice though I don't have an electrical tester so I will get one. The Aquatonic shower from Wikes has pipe entry Left, Right, Top, Bottom & Rear so I suppose the position of the water feed isn't an issue.
     
  8. riveralt

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    You will also need to check that the cable entry is accessible with sufficient cable length to reach the terminal block, especially the earth which they seem to move around a lot.
    You will need to check that the cable present and the MCB with RCD protection are the correct size as per manufacturers instructions.
     
  9. ManWithNoNameAlreadyTaken

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  10. ban-all-sheds

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    But not a neon screwdriver/voltstick type of thing.
     
  11. marb

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  12. riveralt

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    This is the wickes website for the aquantronic 8.5kw shower.
    http://www.wickes.co.uk/aquatronic-3-ultra-85kw-electric-shower/invt/160507/
    Scroll down to the installation instructions and electrical entry points.
    This will give you the information regarding the electrical entry points, cabel sizes, MCB and the RCD.
    Provided you don't any insulation that could derate the cable you will need to have 6mm2 T&E as a minimum.
     
  13. marb

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    I have taken a photo of the inside to give you a better idea of what I have to work with. Obviously something has happened with the electrics as it's clearly burned and melted plastic. Any ideas ?

    [​IMG]
     
  14. riveralt

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    That cable looks like 6mm2 T&E though you will need to take it back to clean copper when you replace the shower. The cable entry point looks about the same as the Aquatronic.
    It looks like the netural has gone, possibly due to a loose connection.
    Are you sure that this is 7.5kw shower - I can see 9.5kw on one of the labels.
    Gainsborough recommend this shower as the direct replacement.

    http://www.gainsboroughshowers.co.uk/Customer-Services/Replace-an-old-model/ENERGY-2000X-95kW/
     
  15. marb

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    Obviously it's a 9.5 KW. Well spotted, not sure why I thought it was 7.5.

    Would the failed neutral be due to the main switch going ?

    What are my best options now for a 9.5 KW ?
     

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