Adding Masterblaster to Scantronics 9651

[coalpit]

Guys my apologies for raising this again. I want to add another Masterblaster type siren but installed inside the premises to give any intruder a double dose of extreme noise!!

I know that I will have to run it off a 12volt relay to switch the 240v but please can someone gently take me through where I connect it to the control panel please.

Very many thanks

Richard

 

[Europlex]

Do you know how loud these things are?

I would suggest that yourself or a member of your family could quite easily suffer a heart attack at one of these sounding when you are asleep, let alone two

Apart from that side of things, if an intruder has the same problem as above, hope you have a good solicitor.

Yes I know why you want to do this but it is fool hardy in the extreme.

 

[sparkymarka]

12v + to aux and neg trip to bell o/p

 

[coalpit]

Do you know how loud these things are?

Eh, yes. I've already got one fitted on the outside of the building<G>

I would suggest that yourself or a member of your family could quite easily suffer a heart attack at one of these sounding when you are asleep, let alone two

It's business premises in a remote spot. Already had it triggered by a vibration alarm on the patio doors some months ago at 1.40am I checked the zone effected on the log the next morning and it takes a hell of a thump to set that vibration alarm off so no accident and no false alarms to date and the system has been in use for about a year.

Apart from that side of things, if an intruder has the same problem as above, hope you have a good solicitor.

I think I will take the risk! If anyone should actually get inside I want to create such a noise that they have no option than top leave double quick.

Yes I know why you want to do this but it is fool hardy in the extreme.

Cheers

Richard

 

[coalpit]

12v + to aux and neg trip to bell o/p

Thanks but I need a little more hand holding please<G> When you say neg trip to bell o/p is this op1.

Cheers

Richard

 

[EightyTwo]

Yes, it's O/P 1. You could also use O/P 3 and, bearing in mind Europlex's concerns, you could program this as a 'confirmed' output. This way, it won't go off until there is a second activation, not just a bird flying into the window.

 

[Europlex]

I checked the zone effected on the log the next morning and it takes a hell of a thump to set that vibration alarm off so no accident and no false alarms to date and the system has been in use for about a year.Richard

You obviously do not yet know how 'vibration alarms' work.

"a hell of a thump" is not the way to test them.

High frequency vibration caused by breaking glass, splintering of wood, hammering a brick wall etc is what they are looking for, a thump with your fist, no. If they operate at that, they need adjusting correctly.

What is the make of your detectors, lets see how they are supposed to be tested, there might even be a manufacturer's testing device available?

 

[bernardgreen]

easily suffer a heart attack at one of these sounding

Also consider a house fire triggering the alarm. The last thing you need then is the dis-orientation of a master blaster as you try to organise safely evacuating the family.

 

[coalpit]

Yes, it's O/P 1. You could also use O/P 3 and, bearing in mind Europlex's concerns, you could program this as a 'confirmed' output. This way, it won't go off until there is a second activation, not just a bird flying into the window.

Many thanks for the confirmation. One reason for my setting the vibration alarm high is to avoid false triggers. It has to be a heavy blow so any small branches blown onto the window or bird strikes or sudden gusts of wind will not cause an activation. The only time the zone or for that matter any zone has been triggered in a year or so or operation is on a still night in the very early hours of the morning. I feel that in light of this I've got it set right.

Cheers

Richard

 

[coalpit]

easily suffer a heart attack at one of these sounding

Also consider a house fire triggering the alarm. The last thing you need then is the dis-orientation of a master blaster as you try to organise safely evacuating the family.

Thanks. As I think have already said these are business premises not a house, however I have the existing external Masterblaster on it's own unidentified power switch so it can easily be turned off if necessary. I would do the same for a second MB.

Cheers

Richard

 

[coalpit]

I checked the zone effected on the log the next morning and it takes a hell of a thump to set that vibration alarm off so no accident and no false alarms to date and the system has been in use for about a year.Richard

You obviously do not yet know how 'vibration alarms' work.

Thanks but I think I do know how they work<G>

"a hell of a thump" is not the way to test them.

High frequency vibration caused by breaking glass, splintering of wood, hammering a brick wall etc is what they are looking for, a thump with your fist, no. If they operate at that, they need adjusting correctly.

What is the make of your detectors, lets see how they are supposed to be tested, there might even be a manufacturer's testing device available?

I think I do know how this unit operates and how to set it up. I want this vibration alarm to only trigger when a serious attempt is made to see if the glass is alarmed or when there is an attempt to break in. I do not want it to trigger if something flies into the glass, or a branch gets blown against the window or there is a sudden gust of wind. The unit is a Texecon Premier Impaq Plus unit.

Cheers

Richard