AEG cooker and oven installation

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by crea, 7 Mar 2006.

This topic originated from the How to page called Installing a cooker hood.

  1. crea

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    Hello all,

    Just purchased an AEG ceramic glass induction hob (7.4 kW) and oven (3 kW) and am looking to install them.

    Having read around the message board, am I right in thinking that I can do this on one new radial circuit, using 10mm2 cable from a 45 amp mcb in my consumer unit to a double pole cooker control unit near to the cooker? Then run 10mm2 cable to two (one for each appliance) terminal outlet boxes, if so, do both cables from the terminal outlet boxes get connected together in the cooker control unit? Also the instruction manuals for the appliances mention using specific cables to connect to the appliance terminal blocks, H05VV-F or H05RR-F for the oven and H05BB-F Tmax 90 (or higher) for the hob, what are these?

    Finally the instruction manual for the hob also states that a protective floor must be installed under the appliance and the appliance must be protected from steam if an oven is fitted below, any ideas where I can obtain the above from, the built in cooker kitchen unit I bought from Ikea did not contain any such items.

    Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers!
     
  2. Steve

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    A 32A MCB would suffice for the hob, with 6mm² cable, but it never hurts to put in 10mm².

    The oven should be supplied seperately, from a 13A FCU, or it can be plugged in (yes, plugged in) to a normal socket

    What we did is wire a socket to the cooker circuit, so the control switch also turns the socket off. wiring to the socket needs to be 6mm². You could use an FCU on the cooker circuit instead of a plug and socket.

    If you do put the hob and oven on the same circuit, I would use a 40A MCB and 10mm² cable to the switch. Then use 6mm² cable from the switch to the socket/hob.

    not sure about the protective floor. contact the manufacturers.
     
  3. crea

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    Hi Crafty,

    Thanx for the speedy reply :D !

    Sorry if I come across as being a little bit stupid :oops: , but am new to this and obviously it being electrics, I want to make sure I get it right! To clarify, I put a 40 amp MCB in my consumer unit, run 10mm2 cable to the cooker control unit, have two 6mm2 cables connected to the load side of the CCU, one running to a 13 amp? FCU for the oven and the other wired directly into the terminal block of the hob?

    Once again thanx in advance.
     
  4. andy

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    yes, but connecting 2 6mm T&E to the cooker control might be a pain in the arse. go for a 2gang sized without switch to give you more space
     
  5. crea

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    Hi Andy,

    Thanx for the clarification, one more question, the cable from the FCU to the terminal block on the oven, what size should it be, can I use 2.5mm2 or should it also be 6mm2? Do the cable codes stated in the appliance instruction manuals and mentioned in my original query mean anything to you?

    Cheers!
     
  6. crea

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    Hello again all,

    Just been and had a look at my CU and have found two unused MCB's (house was rewired last year and the circuits these ran are no longer used) one is a 16 amp and the other a 32 amp. Would a better solution be to run 2.5mm2 cable from the 16 amp MCB to a 13 amp FCU for the oven and 6mm2 from the 32 amp to a CCU for the hob, giving each it's own circuit? Also, regarding the cables to be used to connect the FCU to the terminal block on the oven and the CCU to the terminal block on the hob, is it OK to use standard 2.5mm2 and 6mm2 respectively, or do I need to find out what the codes mentioned in the appliance instruction manuals mean and use those?

    Thanx again.
     
  7. Steve

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    this is a good idea.

    32A for the hob, wired in 6mm² cable. With cooker switch above worktop.

    16A for oven. wired in 2.5mm². With switched FCU ABOVE worktop, and flex outlet plate behind oven.

    I think there is a table in "for reference" to show what the cable codes mean. Have a look in that, but only use these cables from the appliance to the outlet plates. I wouldn't think it was nessecary anywhere else.
     
  8. andy

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    even better. you can use 1.5mmT&E from 13A FCU if you wanted, altho i would keep it at 2.5
     
  9. crea

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    Thanx Guys!

    Assistance very much appreciated!
     
  10. gordman

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    Thanks for the advice, they are very practical. I never was good with plumbings, that's why I try to pick up best appliance parts when buying, to avoid plumbing situations as much as possible.
     
  11. Steve

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    gordman, you've put 3 posts on this forum. Your third is a blatant advert. Why?
     
  12. electronicsuk

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    I never were good for english grammar.
     

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