I just bought a mid blue dresser that has been crackled glazed and although I want to keep the effect, i wish to change the colour to a paler shed like sage or cream or, even, duck egg blue.Can anyone advise me please on what to do and what kind of paint to use etc?Thanks
any paint effect experts out there?
- Thread starter donmaico
- Start date
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Really speaking the dresser should be taken back to its original finish and the entire procedure done again.
Crackle Glazes can be either oil or waterbased, yet I would tend to think that the latter would have been used in your case. The only other way forward is to apply an oil based primer sealer, followed by your choosen colour, then re-glazed. When this is achieved you should then apply a coat of acrylic varnish to protect your work.
Dec.
Crackle Glazes can be either oil or waterbased, yet I would tend to think that the latter would have been used in your case. The only other way forward is to apply an oil based primer sealer, followed by your choosen colour, then re-glazed. When this is achieved you should then apply a coat of acrylic varnish to protect your work.
Dec.
Thank you.
Would the existing colour show through the crackle and what kind of paint should i use ? Emulsion or an oil based one?
A bit late tonight to offer you any further advice here, blame the beer. Yet what you are about to attempt is a very skilled procedure. But you have my word that sometime tomorrow I will try to guide you through some of the numerous ways for you to achieve a good result.
If in any way I forget, please post again to remind me.
Going to bed
Dec.
If in any way I forget, please post again to remind me.
Going to bed
Dec.
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First off my suggestion to use an oil based sealer was to promote a bonding for future applications, if however you are sure that the surface is sound you if you wish could skip this procedure.
What is important to remember is that your basecoat will show through when the piece is finished so your choice of colours is very important, you could use a lighter shade for your base and a darker one for the top coat. or vice versa.
When the base coat has dried you will be ready to apply your glaze, this is normaly ready to accept the top coat within 30 to 60 mins, so follow the instructions that come with your glazing medium.
As soon as the finish coat is applied over the glaze the crackling will begin, try to apply your paint with even sweeps of the brush and avoid over brushing. When this has dried you will need to seal it with an acrylic varnish.
Another method would be to apply your basecoat and when dry apply one coat of oil based varnish, when this is approaching the touch dry stage then apply an acrylic varnish, if your timeing is good the crackle effect will occur within the oil based coating.
Whatever method you choose I urge you first to practice this method on an unwanted piece of timber.
The very best of luck to you and I hope my advice is useful to you.
Dec.
What is important to remember is that your basecoat will show through when the piece is finished so your choice of colours is very important, you could use a lighter shade for your base and a darker one for the top coat. or vice versa.
When the base coat has dried you will be ready to apply your glaze, this is normaly ready to accept the top coat within 30 to 60 mins, so follow the instructions that come with your glazing medium.
As soon as the finish coat is applied over the glaze the crackling will begin, try to apply your paint with even sweeps of the brush and avoid over brushing. When this has dried you will need to seal it with an acrylic varnish.
Another method would be to apply your basecoat and when dry apply one coat of oil based varnish, when this is approaching the touch dry stage then apply an acrylic varnish, if your timeing is good the crackle effect will occur within the oil based coating.
Whatever method you choose I urge you first to practice this method on an unwanted piece of timber.
The very best of luck to you and I hope my advice is useful to you.
Dec.
Sorry but there are two things I forgot to mention, you should first abrade the surface with 400 grit wet, and use only waterbased emulsions.
i've got one Mother of a headache never again!!
Dec.
how often have i said that myself
Anyway many thanks for your kind advice.Only one more question- could i not use the existing mid to dark blue as base coat or do i need to start from scratch ? If so i assume i would need two coats of the base colour to get full coverage before applying the glaze etc.I can see an awful lot wrong with the existing paintwork.Maybe a little wear here and there but not much
thanks
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