Boulter Camray 5 Oil Boiler

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Approx 3 wks ago our boiler was serviced and we were told one of the baffle plates was burnt right through and had a hole in it and another one was bent.We were also told it needed a new pump.These were fitted plus 2 other parts we can't remember the names of.Boiler was switched back on and seemed to be working ok.30 minutes after repair man left boiler went to lockout.Took front panel off and reset it and it ran alright.
Boilers been working all ok for the last 3 weeks as long as the front panel is left off as another couple of attempts to put the front panel on result in lockout each time.
Been waiting for repair man to return to find out what this problem is as he doesn't know , however tonight the boiler sounded as though it was going but no heat at all as the chimney was stone cold and no heat in the radiators.

The boiler is 6 years old.

Any clues ??
 
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when he replaced parts did he set the boiler up.with the 3 essential tools 1 FGA
2 OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
3 SMOKE PUMP

basically theres a reason the baffles have been to that state,and the reason it works with cover off only goes to sugest.that the boiler hasnt been set up properly.
 
when he replaced parts did he set the boiler up.with the 3 essential tools 1 FGA
2 OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
3 SMOKE PUMP

basically theres a reason the baffles have been to that state,and the reason it works with cover off only goes to sugest.that the boiler hasnt been set up properly.

1 FGA ??
2 OIL PRESSURE GAUGE - YES
3 SMOKE PUMP ??

He's supposed to be coming back tomorrow? do i take it any slight mis settings are all it would take for this to happen?
 
Two problems:
1 The photocell will be keeping the burner in purge. replace it

2 The boiler has been set up witout the casing on, so when it is replaced it starves the burner of air. It needs re-setting and checking with the casing fitted. There is a test point in the up pipe of high level balanced flues, or a hole in the end plate of a low level flue terminal for this purpose.
 
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well the guy turned up late this morning with a right old attitude claiming he'd even called Worcester Bosch and said they were very unhelpful , which we know to be a lie as we phoned them on friday afternoon and they were extremely helpful and said they would be happy to talk him through some things when he was next round.He tried a new photo cell and it just kept going to lock out and was adamanat the settings were all correct ?? then started saying something about a burner ??

Basically when questioned by us this morning he's thrown a wobbly and stormed off saying get some else to fix it which basically means we'll have to pay again which to be honest is pretty .... He's left now refusing to come back and sort it out !!

Checked on the Ofstec site and it appears he's not registered :evil:

Desperatley now trying to get someone else to come out a.s.a.p !!!
 
What the boiler man should do, once the thing is running, is to check the oil pump pressure (somewhere between 100 and 140 psi) and then do a smoke test. If this proves to be ok he can then do a flue gas analysis to determine what the CO2 content is (typically between 11 and 12%). He should then adjust the burner air door to achieve this figure.
Has your system a balanced flue? It sounds as if it does, because as you say, leaving the front off helps it a bit.....is this the front of the boiler casing, or the aluminium box that the burner is housed in?
Can you tell if the burner fails during a burning cycle, or simply doesn't ignite from a normal start?
John :)
 
What the boiler man should do, once the thing is running, is to check the oil pump pressure (somewhere between 100 and 140 psi) and then do a smoke test. If this proves to be ok he can then do a flue gas analysis to determine what the CO2 content is (typically between 11 and 12%). He should then adjust the burner air door to achieve this figure.
Has your system a balanced flue? It sounds as if it does, because as you say, leaving the front off helps it a bit.....is this the front of the boiler casing, or the aluminium box that the burner is housed in?
Can you tell if the burner fails during a burning cycle, or simply doesn't ignite from a normal start?
John :)

The only thing he checked was the oil pump pressure which was 120.
It's actually the white front panel of the boiler that needed to stay off in order for it to work , now of course it doesn't work at all?
 
When you press the lock out lamp switch in, this is what should happen.
The burner motor starts and purges the flue with fresh air for a few sec,
then the ignition spark starts (maybe you can hear a slight buzzing) then the oil is switched on electrically by a solenoid on the pump. The photocell monitors the flame - if it can see light, it keeps the oil on, and the ignition spark ceases. If the flame fails the photocell will attempt a relight - if nothing happens, then lock out occurs. Its vital that the photocell is clean, and faces the flame. Usually its easy to withdraw them to check. The other common fault is the coil on top of the pump - if this doesn't work, the oil cant pass through to the nozzle.
Obviously the passages through the burner to the flue must be clear - back pressure here will snuff the flame out, more than likely.
Whats happening to yours at the moment?
John :)
 
When you press the lock out lamp switch in, this is what should happen.
The burner motor starts and purges the flue with fresh air for a few sec,
then the ignition spark starts (maybe you can hear a slight buzzing) then the oil is switched on electrically by a solenoid on the pump. The photocell monitors the flame - if it can see light, it keeps the oil on, and the ignition spark ceases. If the flame fails the photocell will attempt a relight - if nothing happens, then lock out occurs. Its vital that the photocell is clean, and faces the flame. Usually its easy to withdraw them to check. The other common fault is the coil on top of the pump - if this doesn't work, the oil cant pass through to the nozzle.
Obviously the passages through the burner to the flue must be clear - back pressure here will snuff the flame out, more than likely.
Whats happening to yours at the moment?
John :)

Nothings happening at all this end now as we daren't fiddle with it , were now waiting for a call back from someone @ Homestart who hopefully are going to come out ??
 
At this time of year when we have a cold spell any water/condensation lying in the oil tank outlet filter bowl can freeze and prevent oil flow through the filter and onwards to the boiler. This causes oil starvation at the burner which then causes burner failure/lock outs for no apparent reason. This only happens when it's unusually cold!

Oh and usually at Christmas when all the engineers are at home keeping warm.......

I can't say this is the cause of your problems but it's worth checking the tank outlet filter for ice. You can also wrap something around the outlet valve/pipe to prevent icing such as an old blanket or similar.

Actually having read you last message again it sounds more like your burner motor has died.
 
Are you going to after the first guy ? If you do, it may get you some money back and same other people from his "expertise".

On what you've said, you could go after him with Trading Standards for not completing the work paid for and possibly also for not being OFTEC registered as I believe that is necesary for working on oil-boilers, isn't it ?
 
If your burner doesn't do anything at all once you press the lockout, I guess the motor is kaput, as suggested...unless the system has an air pressure switch somewhere.
Anyway, hope you get it sorted real soon - we would appreciate a post back with the result!
John :)
 

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