Building a shed from scratch

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Blackpool
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I'm thinking about building my own shed. I'd like something built to my spec, shape & size.

Can anyone share some advise/experience on this?

first of all, is it likely to be cheaper when bulding your own?
I built decking a few years ago and used reclaimed timber for the base, saved me a lot - I plan on doing the same for the shed base/frame.

What's the best wood to use for the main panels?
How do I construct the roof & door?

I have the idea of building a huge framework of 2x2 reclaimed wood as the frame and then using interlocking floorboards to make up the panels, roof, and door - does this sound plausable?

Any advice appreciated
 
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thanks big-all,

I saw your pictures this morning - looks fantastic.

I'm not going for an apex style shed, it'll be a side-on shape, 12x8 ft with a higher roof point at the front, tappering lower. Do you know what's acceptable in terms of height? and then gradient to the lowest point?
I was thinking 6'6ft highest point, 6ft at lowest (6 inch slope on roof.)

Double doors at the front, single window and single window on side.
 
if you got for 6ft'6"it will be far to low
and you will need suporting timbers rather than an "A" frame
go for 7'6" [up to 3m from ground level is ok on an apex roof]

you can reduce the sides to say 5' 10" because it only effects the the 6" or so inches down each side before you get back to 6ft head room and iff you raise the bottom off the "A" frame up say 4" you will have 6'2" clearence

sorry was rushing earlier have re-read and you are after a sloping roof
the max is somthing like 2.5m and you would need somthing like 4x2 or 5x2" at 2ft centres to support the roof on an 8ft span or of it was along the 12ft edge probably have to be 7x2" ish
 
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I'd be very interested in being kept updated, I'm planning something similar...

a summer house measuring roughly 4.8m x 2.4m with an apex roof.

Planned to use:-
- 3"x2" to build timber frame
- clad externally with tongue and groove
- internal floor 18mm ply
- 3"x 2" trusses
- 6 mm ply walls internally
- 18mm ply roof with felt shingles, 1 large window, door etc.

All looks good in the plans I have drawn in Sketchup, correct me please now if I am talking crap re products I plan to use?

Many thanks.
 
I'd be very interested in being kept updated, I'm planning something similar...

a summer house measuring roughly 4.8m x 2.4m with an apex roof.

Planned to use:-
- 3"x2" to build timber frame
- clad externally with tongue and groove
- internal floor 18mm ply
- 3"x 2" trusses
- 6 mm ply walls internally
- 18mm ply roof with felt shingles, 1 large window, door etc.

All looks good in the plans I have drawn in Sketchup, correct me please now if I am talking crap re products I plan to use?

Many thanks.

spec the exact same as my shed except
sides
5"shiplap t&g pressure treated

floor bearers
3x2" pressure treated 24" centres on slabs set on cement toped with a brick with felt under the floor bearers

internal cladding
12mm ext ply so you can fix things to it

roof

"A" frames max span 10ft max centres 4ft at 30 degree angle 3 layer torch on felt
you will need simmilar angle for felt shingles
roof lined with 6mm ext ply
 
Thanks big-all, good to hear I am vaguely on track, will probably go the shiplap route 5" of 11 and a bit cms.

Re floor I was just planning a 3"x2" frame with some heavy wood treatment. Being a bear of little brain was not sure what you mean by:-

floor bearers
3x2" pressure treated 24" centres on slabs set on cement toped with a brick with felt under the floor bearers

Also would like 12mm ply but it is so damned expensive, any cheaper way to finish walls off?

Do you have any air vents in the shed?

Thanks again.
 
I was hoping on ply roof? Any other input would be good.

Also does anyone have any further thoughts on the walls?

I was planning T&G outside, 3"x2" stud walls, rock wool insulation, inner ply. Should there be any membrane/waterproofing sheet or does this stop breathing of shed?

Thanks.
 
Ply or 18mm OSB board, quicker and more stable.

Notter, stop hijacking the OP's question! But to answer, you'll need polythene on the inside between the rockwool and inner ply, and either brown building paper or breathable roof membrane on the outside of the studs. Then 25mm battens before the cladding.
 
Thanks big-all, good to hear I am vaguely on track, will probably go the shiplap route 5" of 11 and a bit cms.

Re floor I was just planning a 3"x2" frame with some heavy wood treatment. Being a bear of little brain was not sure what you mean by:-

floor bearers
3x2" pressure treated 24" centres on slabs set on cement toped with a brick with felt under the floor bearers

Also would like 12mm ply but it is so damned expensive, any cheaper way to finish walls off?

Do you have any air vents in the shed?

Thanks again.

support for the floor area is set out in a grid pattern support at 23"ish centres
a 16" paving slab set on concrete with a brick on top
between the brick and the 3x2" treated floor joist is felt to stop damp transfererance
on my 10ft wide shed there are 3x2" treated at 2" in 25"in 49" in 73" in 97" in and at 2" in from the other side
basicly 2" in from all edges with the sides covering the base by around 2"
there is no cross bracing/framework under the floor just end to end joists

the coverage off 5"shiplap is 107mm+2mm gap =109mm

i dont have any vents the shed is fairly airtight appart from the door end where there are the usual wood to wood gaps around the doors
 
Probably being thick here - apologies.

The osb/sterling boards for the roofing?

- osb/sterling boards seem quite a bit cheaper so could they also be the flooring. Assuming I get some laminate/lino/tiling on top.
- doesn't osb/sterling boards warp, expand?
- if I could use osb/sterling boards for the internal walls can these be painted/made smooth/more attractive (with ease?)
- could I use osb/sterling boards throughout - roof, flooring and internal walls

Would make it cheaper but need same strength as ply and also ideally the internal aesthetics.

Sorry for so many questions and any hijaking? I have done.

Thanks.
 
osb in my oppinion is about 20/25% weaker than ply but i tend to go for longevity/overkill with built in redundantcy
like ply theres maybe 2mm movement around the edges
for your floor i would still use 18mm ply expensive but wont give you trouble at 24" centres

you wont get smooth with osb/sterling board how much are you expecting to pay for your 12mm ply then
 

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