Building an attached garage- blockwork/brickwork advice?

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Hi, i'm looking for some bricklayers advice.

I'm building an attached garage as above, its not big but it'll have its uses. Anyway the problem is how to block/ brick up the front section between the garage door and the house, i've got wall starters kits at the ready and wall tis, however the width is 340mm, so my question is what should i use to brick this up, i cant use concrete block as it not a full block should i use facing brick in the full section up to the lintel, its a 100mm 7n block/100mm cavity/100mm block. The bottom courses are facing brick to match existing.
Any advice will be much apprieciated

Cheers martin
 
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I can see why its confusing, basically i have a 340mm section of wall to build and i'm not sure exactly how to go about it. The section is joining the existing house and meets the garage door opening. If i use facing brick then its 1 1/2 brick per course(which i have used from 2 courses below ground level to opening on the outside skin, concrete block inside skin with 100mm partial fill cavity planned), however on the inside its short of a complete block, surely i dont just put 340mm of block upon block? Would i be better using facing brick inside and outside skin? Or try to bridge the 100mm cavity to create a pier/pillar for the door lintel to sit on?
Thanks for the reply, its probably a simple answer but i am doing this myself and its the first time i've bricklayed a cavity..
 
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Block on block will be fine as you will gain nowt from bonding a single length block. If the blocks are gonna be visible, i.e. pointed masonry, then for the sake of aesthetics you may want to bond them to make it easier on the eye.

However, i would recommend tieing each (block) course, both across the cavity to the brickwork and to whatever the block-work is joining, usually via a propriertary wall starter.
 
Incedentally, you will need to design a return nib when you build the external masonry (brick-work) jambs. This is to provide 'slamming' strength to the garage door frame.
 
Thanks for that, so for example on the inside blockwork i should have one course with a 340mm block keep the bond on the next course and have 2 x 160mm blocks then back 2 340mm block for the next course, or should i turn the blocks on their side? if so then where would i place these as the full width inc brick/cav/block is 300mm? ,i've got the wall starters in place and plenty of ties, does that sound ok?

Also its a gliderol roller door fitted to the inside so would i still need to return the brickwork?

Cheers martin
 
Unless I completely misunderstood the description, for such a small section of wall I can't really see why you would bother creating a cavity anyway. There will be absolutely no benefit in making it insulated cavity construction when it's next to a leaky garage door. Build it solid 9" brickwork.
 
Its sounds like u've got it spot on,The bco requested me to put in insulation for 'future conversion' my original plan was for solid walls, when i agreed to it i didnt think about the opening for the garage door. The walls are now at ground level, so i'm stuck with the cavity all round, its where to go from here. Since the wall is 300mm i was also considering making a solid pillar i.e 440x300x150 solid block or similar which will cover the size
 
As well as converting the garage later on, you should also consider that you may want to build above - hence the full spec' cavity wall size.

Even if you don't want to convert or build above, it could be a lucrative selling point for someone that does.
 
Thats exactly what the building inspector said as i've went down 1.5m to lay the foundations an there also 650mmx250mm, so its a good foundation for further development, i know it just a garage at the moment but it's more than likey it will be converted later due to its length and not so much the width..
 

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