C/H Expansion tank filling continuously

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1960's house, Potterton Profile boiler 13 years old, mostly original pipework. The central heating pipes are buried in concrete floors downstairs. The expansion tank in the loft has been filling at a steady trickle continuously for several months, but there is no sign of leaks anywhere in the system. This happens even when the heating and hot water is off. I tried tying up the float and the tank half-emptied within a couple of hours.
There are two rads that regularly fill with air - one upstairs, one downstairs, one is directly above the other (coincidence?). There are no other symptoms I'm aware of - the expansion tank never overflows, the indirect h/w cylinder doesn't overflow.

My boiler man reckons as there's nothing coming through the ceiling, it must be a leak somewhere in the pipes in the solid floor that has yet to show itself. He suggests running new pipes dropped from the ceiling to each downstairs rad, and cutting off the original buried pipes completely (at a cost of about £2000 - there are eight rads downstairs).

As well as major cost, there will be quite a lot of upheaval in moving upstairs fitted furniture and carpets and/or making good if holes have to be cut in the ceiling to gain access to the pipework.
I'm reluctant to commit to this work without having some evidence that the leak really is downstairs... I'd be sick as the proverbial if the tank carried on filling afterwards!

Is there anything I can do to try to confirm where the water's going? I've lifted carpets downstairs, especially around the rads that get air in them, but all seems dry as bone.
I thought about pouring some food colouring into the expansion tank to see if it appears anywhere, but apart from that I'm stumped. Any suggestions (apart from moving house :( )?
 
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Before digging up pipes in concrete floors or putting in drops chuck some Fernox leak sealant into the system and obey the instructions. It sometimes works, it sometimes doesn't, but we had enough success when we had 'upgraded' systems to pressurised with pipes in concrete floors..whch then lost pressure.......for it to be worth a try for what it costs.

Sometimes it doesn't work at all and then its a repipe I'm afraid, which in all honesty is the best approach, but using the sealant can help confirm a diagnosis as well if it stops the leak, even temporarily.

Alfredo
 
As suggested give leak sealer a try.It does sound as if the leak is a fairly good one and if its been doing it for months then all that oxygenated water will have caused a few corrosion problems.You may have to accept a repipe is the only way forward.Your plumber will advise on flushing and water treatment.
 
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suggest you check out this company haven't used them myself but have heard good reports


Munters MCS - Leak Detection Services
Hidden leaks in any application are notoriously difficult to detect. Even if a leaking pipe is noticed, the cost and disruption associated with locating the source can be considerable. Too often walls and floors are unnecessarily damaged and even then there is no guarantee that the leak will be found.

munters.co.uk

Steve
 
You need to bite the bullet on this one. You will be wasting heated water as the heating season fast approaches. It will be corroding the rest of the heating system and causing sludging.

If it is leaking on one place, it may start soon in other places. Get a quote or two for a complete repipe with or without a boiler change, and perhaps for a complete new system. It may not cost that much more, and cutting into existing pipework all over the place is never easy.

A good modern boiler will use far less gas than an old cast iron one. See previous posts about condensing plus weather comp.
 
suggest you check out this company haven't used them myself but have heard good reports


Munters MCS - Leak Detection Services
Hidden leaks in any application are notoriously difficult to detect. Even if a leaking pipe is noticed, the cost and disruption associated with locating the source can be considerable. Too often walls and floors are unnecessarily damaged and even then there is no guarantee that the leak will be found.

munters.co.uk

Steve

Re. the above - I've used them before - pretty good service... pin pointed the leak in the screen within about 10 minutes, we dug down - sure enough there it was and then fixed the problem. Their thermal cameras detect the heat so they can check all of your floors pretty quickly. Only downside is that obviously the water follows the run of the pipe once it has leaked - so if the pipe run falls through the screed then the water will flow this and "pool" at the lowest point - this will be what the Munters camera picks up - so not always 100% accurate.

Think if I remember correctly it was about £250 to get them out with the camera to have a look.
 
Tie the ballcock up and run a hot water tap for 20 mins. See if the F and E level drops. Could also be a split DHW coil.
 
A split coil had occurred to me too but as muggles says, one tank would feed another and you'd get an overflow running somewhere so i ruled that out

Alfredo
 
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions and advice, guys - been away from my PC at the w/e, only caught up this morning.

Yesterday afternoon, as a start, I added 2x500ml Fernox leak sealer + 4 ltr MB1 protector to the system, draining off and returning a bucketful of the water a dozen times to get it mixed in. Then ran the heating for a couple of hours to make sure.

One thing I noticed (before doing this) is the expansion tank stopped filling when the pump was working - I don't know if that is significant...

I'll check the expansion tank when I get home tonight.

It does sound as though the long-term solution is most likely to be a re-pipe, just a question of the timing.

Thanks again.
 

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