Cabling a Grid Switch

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Does anyone know if there is a minimum or recommended length of cable to use when daisy-chaining modules in a grid switch? Eg 2" might work but 6" is recommended to avoid over-heating a short length etc?

Thanks.
 
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mrscalex said:
Does anyone know if there is a minimum or recommended length of cable to use when daisy-chaining modules in a grid switch? Eg 2" might work but 6" is recommended to avoid over-heating a short length etc?

Thanks.
What makes you think that a short length is more likely to overheat than a long length? What's the physics behind that?
 
I'll take that as a no minimum length recommended then!

Thanks.
 
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I suppose the only important thing is that there is enough cable to ensure that they aren't under tension.

I am wondering, due to the short distances involved, is it better to use singles within the grid rather than T&E? Would certainly look neater IMHO, but would also make installation easier and therefore ballsups less likely ;)
 
Scalex, did you get the pre-printed modules for kitchen appliances? If so, how much were they? I can only find the non-printed ones on the websites I know, £3.55 for a 20A DP.
 
AdamW said:
I suppose the only important thing is that there is enough cable to ensure that they aren't under tension.

I am wondering, due to the short distances involved, is it better to use singles within the grid rather than T&E? Would certainly look neater IMHO, but would also make installation easier and therefore ballsups less likely ;)

well obviously inside the box you wouldn't use complete cables

the advatage of singles over cores from T&E is they are usually strandaed and therfore more flexible

the disadvatages are cost (you would have to buy them specifally) and getting standed cores into the terminals may be trikyier than solid cores
 
Understood about using singles rather than T&E but why not just strip out the single-strand inners from T&E rather than buy multi-strand singles?

AdamW said:
Scalex, did you get the pre-printed modules for kitchen appliances? If so, how much were they? I can only find the non-printed ones on the websites I know, £3.55 for a 20A DP.

Yes, I did get printed modules. And it's been a real battle with my local supplier to get the correct parts and with any haste. After 2 weeks, only 75% of the order turned up and a third of it was wrong, ie I only have 50% of the whole thing! Most of the range is special order by the looks of it, eg TLC only have a very restricted range from stock and don't even advertise availability of the rest of the range.

I wish now I'd specified all the part numbers myself by reference to the excellent MK website. But I didn't know about the web site when I placed my order.

http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products/ranges/rangelist.asp?RangeID=1026

Also be careful to get the correct fascia. The modules are universal but there are about 8 different facias (and different boxes) so be careful. You probably don't want to end up with brass rope edge when you really want stainless steel! Some of the fascia info (eg finish description) is contained within the wider range information and not with the Grid Plus stuff, eg:

http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/products/ranges/rangelist.asp?RangeID=1001

I think the pre-printed modules are more like 6 quid each but it seems well-worth it. All modules are duplicated in neon and non-neon, seems well worth a bit extra to have a clear indicator of status for important devices like fridge/freezer. There's a massive range of designations available, even down to distinguishing between heater and plunth heater!
 
Yes, those singles are quite pricey: TLC only sells them in 100m lengths, which is a bit more than you need to wire one or two grids! :LOL:

I had looked at the MK site (it is pretty good) but all the online wholesalers it links to require signing up just to see their catalogue. Could you imagine a high-street shop requiring name and address to come in and have a look? :LOL:

But about £6, that's not bad considering the fact it will look rather nice when complete. So, it looks like when I get round to my kitchen I will spend £6.30 on the plate, £3 on the frames, £4.10 on the box and about £48 on the switches. Just over £60 +VAT for an 8-way grid. Quite pricey but I think that is worth it for the neatness, not to mention the sheer coolness of it. No doubt I will be the envy of all my friends when they see I can switch on and off any major appliance by virtue of my switches. I think it will look a lot more professional.

You know what, if they don't already, perhaps the "fridge" and "freezer" switches should have some kind of latch on them to prevent accidental switch off. Perhaps I should use one of those "secret key" switches, with a neon next to it for fridge? :idea:
 
Buy decent appliances they have on / off switches, and their sockets likely have the same ... ;)

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