Candy CS455M Sticking during program

[iain90210]

Hi,

Put the dishwasher on last night, when I got up it was still running. Keeps sticking during the programs. Have tested the resistance of the timer motor - showing about 10kOhms.

How do I test thermostat/heating element? Could it be anything else?

Thanx, Iain

 

[zipper]

When a machine washes into infinity it usually boils down to a heater fault. I believe your dishwasher has a removable base plate. If so lie it on its back & remove it. You should get access to most components with the base plate removed. Follow the heater element to where the terminals exit. If you have a multimeter measure the resistance on a 1 x scale, it should read 25 to 30 ohms. If not then the heater element is faulty. If you have correct resistance it could be a faulty heater relay (new pcb required), a break in the heater wiring/bad connection, or a faulty thermal safety device.

 

[iain90210]

Thanks zipper. Will try what you suggest. Have looked at the price of a new heating element and would be considerably cheaper than a new dishwasher!

 

[iain90210]

Noticed that as well as sticking at a certain point in cycle, machine never heated up. Supported what Zipper suggested. Had to take some panels off to get to heater element and thermostat connections.

Heater = 30 ohms - OK

Thermostat = open circuit - looking dodgy. Took it out and tested resistance again with business end in boiling water. Still open circuit. Busted.

Bought new thermostat from espares, £7.50 + p+p. Fitted today.

Machine cycling normally and heating up properly

Wasn't a technically difficult fix. Just lots of dismantling and little screws everywhere to remember where they came from. Bit time consuming but always nice to fix something yourself.

Thanks for help.

 

[iain90210]

OK this machine is driving me nuts now.

Worked normally a few times after replacing thermostat.

Now won't fill properly.

Drains sump when program starts. Then takes in enough water to fill sump again. Then moves on to the next part of the program and sticks.

Doesn't get enough water to cover heating element or thermostat.

Could I have damaged/disconnected something?

 

[zipper]

Check for loose contacts, then check for a faulty pressure switch/blocked pressure switch hose. Follow the thin rubber hose from the sump area to find the pressure switch. Check the hose for a blockage & the pressure switch terminals for continuity/switching whilst blowing lightly in the tube end.

 

[iain90210]

No obvious loose contacts.

Found the switch. Tube clear and definitely switching when you blow into the tube.

There is a device on the water inlet with 2 electrical connections. Is it the inlet valve?

How do I test it?

 

[zipper]

The inlet valve is mounted bottom left in the machine (directly onto the supply hose). It has 2 contacts & should measure around 2k ohm. You could try to hotwire it to check flow...it may be sticking mechanically.

 

[iain90210]

Thanks for advice Zipper,

Inlet valve solenoid reads 3.7 kOhms.

Can it be tested in situ? Does it operate on 240 volts?

When you say hotwire I guess you mean apply current to solenoid and see if water comes in to the machine?

 

[zipper]

You obviously know what you're doing...so yes the inlet valve can be tested in-situ. Make up a test flex with a plug & 2 spade connectors. Pull the machine plug & remove the connections to the inlet valve. Connect your 240v test cable to the inlet valve terminals. With the water supply open briefly switch on 240v directly to the inlet valve. With the dishwasher door open check the water flow but be careful not to flood the machine (or the kitchen). Report findings.

 

[iain90210]

Will have a go at that tomorrow and see what happens.

Not been able to find a supplier for a new valve on line though.

 

[zipper]

http://www.espares.co.uk/parts?k=49005679 (If the valve is faulty).

 

[iain90210]

Hot wired the valve with test lead. Machine filled so valve OK.

In normal use solenoid is not energised for long enough to fill properly.

Water valve and pressure switch working as they should.

Beginning to think I have reached the end of the road. Would rather buy new than spend more time+ money on a complex controller fault.

So, last request for any bright ideas before scrapping machine.

 

[iain90210]

Tried running with pressure detection hose disconnected and machine would not stop filling so clearly the pressure switch is causing it to stop filling.

Problem is it is stopping to early. Is there a device in the sump that changes the air pressure in the tube or is it purely the water level going up that forces air along the tube?

Could the internal channel within the sump to this hose be blocked? Had to put machine on it's back to change thermostat maybe dislodged debris has blocked the channel.

 

[zipper]

Do you see one of these little chaps mounted near the inlet valve? http://north.pl/karta/91200523-candy;hoover-liter-zaehler,6769051.html (Its the only picture I could find). If you have one this could be your problem (liter counter). If you don't see one then look at the plastic water matrix on the left hand side for signs of a reed switch with 2 wires going to it. I can't imagine this dishwasher is timed fill.