central heating project

Joined
8 Nov 2010
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Down
Country
United Kingdom
first of all i love my diy and i am one of these blokes who likes to have a go and up to now every job i have taken on has turned out great
i always try and get as much info as possible before i attempt a project so that i can try to anticipate any problems in advance so i would appreciate your help and advice on this one
i fitted a corner bath and shower cubicle , in doing so i had to remove a radiator
i have built a shed against my bungalow which the wife uses for tattooing and i would like to fit this radiator in there as its getting chilly now
sorry for going on but i thought i would give you the background to this
right ----- where the radiator was fitted in the bathroom i now have just the pipe and the temperature control valve( not sure if thats what you call it) and then i have the pipe for the other side of the radiator coming down the wall from the ceiling which i put an isolating valve on
i want to run these two pipes through my bathroom wall along the oustide of the house into the tattoo studio and finally to the radiator and i have these questions for you
would i be better using 15mm copper or 15mm plastic barrier pipe
does it matter wether i run the pipes at floor level or can i run them above door height
if i use the plastic pipe are there connectors available that allow connections to the temperature valve and to the radiator or would i be better draining the system and moving the temperature valve to the radiator in the studio
cant think of any other questions as yet like i said any and all info is well appreciated
 
Sponsored Links
the pipe in your bathroom has a Thermostatic Rad Valve on it, which detects rooom temp and open /closes accordingly to its setting. drain down the heating and remove this valve, it should be attached to the radiator in the shed, as you say its a bungalow i presume you are not going to run the pipes outside in the open as they will freeze and burst. if you can take them up across the loft would be better and where they drop out the house into the shed, insulate well and box them in.
if you have a gravity system with a small header tank in roof this will not work as well and you may get airlocks in that pipework, however if its a combi boiler and under pressure it will work fine.
The best option is to locate some heating pipes near the other side of the shed inside your house, and 'T' into the flow and return there, going through the wall to shed. cap off the two pipes in bathroom.
 
thanks for the reply
the valve in the bathroom is the type where you open and close it manually and if poss i wanted to leave it in place and connect the pipe work to it(can i ??)
i have just found out that the system is gravity fed so the pipework would have to stay floor level
there is no heating pipes on the side of the house ajacent to the studio so i would have to run these pipes outside
would i be ok if i insulated and boxed them in??
 
Sponsored Links
the valve if left in the bathroom would open and close according to the temp in the bathroom , so you could be cosy in the bathroom and cold in the shed, the TRV would close in the athroom and not heat the rad in the shed. you can get push fit valves if you wanted to put new one in the shed and just leave teh bathroom one on max all the time. but would be a waste of a tenner . you obviously run pipes outside at your own risk , but good insulation and boxing should protect them,( not the best practice, piping outside that is)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top