Changing out an intermediate light switch for a new one

[ban-all-sheds]

the Touch and Remote switches have the same diagrams for both 2 way and intermediate switches.
http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/user/Brochures/Retrotouch Catalogue March 2015 Web.pdf
page 19.

That's because, being of the electronic persuasion, they use a master/slave design (or master/slave/slave...).

 

[ban-all-sheds]

FYI - The new switch is a Retrotouch model

This is not the wiring diagram for a Retrotouch switch.

 

[asbowen]

This is not the wiring diagram for a Retrotouch switch.

I believe it is, I was sent this from Retrotouch when I questioned the set up with them

 

[asbowen]

Is the new one a 2-gang switch? The wiring diagram you posted seems to suggest that it's a 2-gang 2-way switch, and not an intermediate switch of any sort.

Please see images of the exact switch

 

[riveralt]

What terminal block?

The one that links the Common of the first two way with the Common of the second two way, normally housed in the backbox of the intermediate switch. You can see it in the picture.

FWIW, I'm also lost!

Kind Regards, John

JohnW2 - I'm confused - why are you lost?
//www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:intermediate_chocknonharm
The way I see this 'intermediate?' switch by retrotouch incorporates the Com link (terminal block) into the switch itself therefore doing away with the need for a terminal block.
Or am I missing something here - or is a large drink and a dark room needed.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

This is not the wiring diagram for a Retrotouch switch.

I believe it is, I was sent this from Retrotouch when I questioned the set up with them

Apologies - it seems I wasn't paying enough attention and conflated the make "Retrotouch" with the touch models.

However that diagram is clearly not that of either a Retrotouch intermediate rocker switch:

or a Retrotouch touch switch:

And as for the back of the switch in your photo being the terminals for a 1-gang intermediate, do you know what they have done? They have taken a 2-gang 2-way and fitted a wide rocker to it so that both gangs work together, and they tell you to wire it with the L1/L2 cross-links as shown so that it mimics the behaviour of a 1-gang intermediate.

Words fail me.

But then this tells us a lot:

It tells us that it was made by someone who doesn't really know what's required, or doesn't care if it means he can drive down manufacturing costs.
It tells us that it was probably made by someone who doesn't care about safety.
And the lack of a CE mark tells us that it should not be on sale in this country.

Cheap on eBay, was it?

 

[asbowen]

Cheap on eBay, was it?

Not at all, http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/ - they're not particularly cheap I don't think.

I'll contact the company to see re the CE mark - it is on the paperwork in the box but I appreciate not on the product itself.

 

[asbowen]

I would imagine in your situation you ignore the Com and just connect the L1 1 (old L1 in) and L1 2(old L2 out) and L2 1(old L3 in) and L2 2 (old L4 out).

The comment above may explain why this hasn't worked

 

[ban-all-sheds]

JohnW2 - I'm confused - why are you lost?

Don't know if he is, but you are.

The way I see this 'intermediate?' switch by retrotouch incorporates the Com link (terminal block) into the switch itself therefore doing away with the need for a terminal block.

No it doesn't.

Or am I missing something here

Yes.

or is a large drink and a dark room needed.

No - what you need is to draw a 2-gang 2-way switch, with L1A linked to L2B and vice versa, your two "incoming" conductors going to the COMs, and see how it behaves when you operate both gangs together.

 

[riveralt]

Cheap on eBay, was it?

Not at all, http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/ - they're not particularly cheap I don't think.

I'll contact the company to see re the CE mark - it is on the paperwork in the box but I appreciate not on the product itself.

I love a good mystery.....
Their website also has a page on how to tell if one of their products is a forgery.
http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/genuine.html

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I haven't come across that type of switch before, but I would imagine in your situation you ignore the Com and just connect the L1 1 (old L1 in) and L1 2(old L2 out) and L2 1(old L3 in) and L2 2 (old L4 out).

No, that won't work - it has to be wired as shown.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Not at all, http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/ - they're not particularly cheap I don't think.

Well - I did mean "inexpensive".

But even if they are not inexpensive, I can assure you that they are cheap.

 

[riveralt]

what you need is to draw a 2-gang 2-way switch, with L1A linked to L2B and vice versa, your two "incoming" conductors going to the COMs, and see how it behaves when you operate both gangs together.

So the wiki link is wrong then?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Their website also has a page on how to tell if one of their products is a forgery.
http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/genuine.html

"2. White switches have a white plastic back - imitations have white glass and black plastic back."

Looks like you've been had.

Where did you buy it, and why from there?

 

[asbowen]

Their website also has a page on how to tell if one of their products is a forgery.

Hopefully what I have is genuine as I bought from one of their featured wholesalers - http://www.retrotouch.co.uk/locator.html