Coldish Radiator. Need some advice for taking it on tomorrow

[sparkyshark]

No Air in all the Radiators.

Closed off all the feed valves on all the other radiators except the problem one. Feed pipe hot. No TRV.

The feed pipe is trying hard but I assume can't push the water though. Slight heat at the top. We had these power flushed some time back it appears they didn't do a good job. The return pipe is cold.

I am thinking of removing the radiator, check to see if any gunk & if so clean out. If not then:
Drain system as first step before removing radiator. If no gunk which I'm sure there won't be.
Remove floor boards, cut a piece of the feed pipe. Check for blockage's continue until blockage found. Once found solder new pipe and make ready for radiator.
Fill system & check for leaks.
If no leaks empty system, place inhibitor and refill.
Return boards furniture etc as it was.

Sound all good? Cheers.

 

[Bahco]

Read Here

Can't go wrong.

 

[sparkyshark]

Read Here

Can't go wrong.

Ok Faq 21. The water flow rate.

I presume all I need to do is close the valves and remove the radiator. However, taking the radiator off this way would result in a complete mess.

So maybe drain the system down, cap it off until full but then again that would be a mess also. The bucket would be way to high... I guess only way would be to attach a hose and cause as little mess as possible...

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

May not need to drain the system, could try this trick....

Depending how big the rad is, may need 2 people. Lift carpets/provide a bowl or towel to catch any leakage. Turn off both valves, starting at one end, slacken off union on the rad tail where it connect to the valve. (Use a second spanner to support valve/pipe.) Keep the valve held tight against the rad whilst you undo the union, it shouldnt lose much water. Assuming there is sufficient 'play in the pipes, quickly move valve away and get your thumb over the tail to seal it.

Repeat opposite end, then keeping thumbs firmly over tails to prevent spillage, lift rad off brackets, turn upside down (tails uppermost), carry outside and allow to drain. Then, with rad removed, get your bucket and drain some water from each valve, if theres any restriction it should flush out.

 

[sparkyshark]

Nice 1. Ok I'll try it your way, I'll have my brother with me so man power shouldn't be an issue.

Should the flow be near enough the same from both feed & return? I need to switch on the heating so the pump circulates don't I?

I guess if the flow is bad on one side I'll remove boards and cut a section of pipe until I find the offending part if it doesn't come out.

If the flow looks ok at both ends I guess that means a radiator change.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

No, leave pump and boiler off. You want the water to flow through by gravity, and push out any obstructions. May well find you get a lot of spluttering, if its air locked, but that could well be your problem! (If system is hot before you attempt this then the flow of hot water will indicate its getting through but it will be HOT so care needed!)

Flow should be same from both ends. Whilst rad is off and outside, wash it through with a hose, no need for new rad unless its leaking, rusty or you really just dont like it.....

 

[sparkyshark]

No, leave pump and boiler off. You want the water to flow through by gravity, and push out any obstructions. May well find you get a lot of spluttering, if its air locked, but that could well be your problem! (If system is hot before you attempt this then the flow of hot water will indicate its getting through but it will be HOT so care needed!)

Flow should be same from both ends. Whilst rad is off and outside, wash it through with a hose, no need for new rad unless its leaking, rusty or you really just dont like it.....

Superb did as you said and all is working. On the return valve joint connection to the radiator there was a some crap, mainly pefte tape blocking the small hole. All Rad's working now brill

One thing I did notice was that the valve on the other side seemed to have a bigger hole. Something I'm going to make sure I check out in the future if I buy new valves.

Cheers again.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Nice one. Valves can vary according to maker, some have larger bore in the tails, you use an allen key to tighten them into the tapping on the rad, others are 1/2" compression joint types, with square section on the tail for a spanner to grip when tightening. Either way, shouldnt be an issue, microbore can use 8mm pipe and still work provided its not sludged up.....