concealing cooker hood cable

[ajrobb]

I am about to install a Moffat cooker hood:

and a SS splash back for a slot-in cooker.

What is the best way of concealing the flex to the cooker hood?
There are no adjacent cupboards but there will be sockets under the counter. It doesn't feel right to run it down behind the splash back.

 

[sparkwright]

Are you able to chase the wall?

Do you have access above?

Did you mean you have sockets OVER the counter?

Where will the isolation switch be?

You could run a cable vertically upwards from the switch, then across in the ceiling void then into the chimney part of the extractor hood.

If you can't run the cable across in the ceiling void, you could do a horizontal chase in the wall within 150 mm from the ceiling.

Cables have to be in safe zones so they don't get drilled through (!).

However, I suppose running the cable behind the splashback directly to the centre of the extractor hood could be classed as a safe cable zone, since it is electrical.

 

[electronicsuk]

How about up into the space above the ceiling and then back down to the FCU or whatever you intend to use to supply it? Avoids running out of the safe zones or behind the splashback.

 

[ajrobb]

Untitled

• ajrobb
• 6 May 2010
• 2

Are you able to chase the wall?

yes

Do you have access above?

yes

Did you mean you have sockets OVER the counter?

The picture is a bit out of date. The boxes above the counter, from left to right, are now

• ring main socket
  spare immersion radial
  original cooker point (not a double socket any more)
  gone

The old under counter sockets have gone. They were on a ring running off the cooker point. I am restoring the cooker point for a slot-in cooker.

Where will the isolation switch be?

This was the subject of an earlier post. I will put an isolation switch on the old immersion radial and chase 2 or 3 sockets off it below the counter for

• washing machine
  cooker igniter
  possible cooker hood

You could run a cable vertically upwards from the switch, then across in the ceiling void then into the chimney part of the extractor hood.

If you can't run the cable across in the ceiling void, you could do a horizontal chase in the wall within 150 mm from the ceiling.

Cables have to be in safe zones so they don't get drilled through (!).

I was going to run a fused spur from the bedroom above down to the new boiler on the left wall in the picture. I suppose I could run a spur off the ring socket (on the left in the picture) with the switch just to the right of the socket. Then chase up to the ceiling and down to a new socket above the outlet in the hood's chimney. I was going to take the 9.5mm plasterboard ceiling down for plumbing and new ring main (on wall behind me when taking the picture).

However, I suppose running the cable behind the splashback directly to the centre of the extractor hood could be classed as a safe cable zone, since it is electrical.

My main worry is the splash back might get hot, so I'd want the flex buried in the wall behind it.

I have notified my LABC of electrical works. Should I do any work before the initial inspection? (e.g. chasing channels and fitting boxes)

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Run all the cables along the wall below the worktop - run up and back down to/from sockets, switches etc (consult RFs photos for nice looking switches.

For the hood supply drop back down from the switch, back along, and then run conduit up the wall behind the splashback between two flush back boxes, the top one positioned in the right place for the flex coming out of the cooker hood. Replace the hood flex with a piece more than long enough to go through the conduit, when you fit the hood push the flex through from the top, and have your helper gently pull to take up the slack as you offer the hood up.

Make the connection for the hood in the bottom box.

Presto - no cables on show, no sockets or FCUs in daft places.