Conecting to Cooker Wiring

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Im guessing this may fall under the area of part P notification so may not be able to do this myself. However a guide on what can be done if I cant would still be appreciated.

We have an existing ceramic hob wired to a CCU and to a 45 amp cooker switch on a 10mm cable. This is then fused at the consumer unit as installed and signed off by an electrician.

However we now wish to add a cooker maximum draw before diversity under 13A, this can either be installed on the kitchen ring main (redundant socket in close proximity) or alterantivley wired onto the cooker radial?

At the moment its 10mm from the cooker switch to the CCU. What would the best solution be? Knowlege is power and all that, even if I'm not doing it myself I would like to know the best solution and what to expect.
 
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If it is under 13A (ie comes with a 13A plug) then it can be plugged into the convenient 13A socket and is not notifiable under Part P.

If it has to be hardwired, then it will need to go on either the cooker circuit, or its own 20A radial circuit, depending on the manufacturers instructions, and that will be notifiable as it's making a change to an existing circuit beyond repair/replacement.

Some European cookers require a circuit fused at 16A or 20A which is too much to spur off a UK ring but not adequately protected on a 32A/40A cooker circuit.
 
that will be notifiable as it's making a change to an existing circuit beyond repair/replacement.
That's not correct.

At the moment it may be notifiable if you class it as work in a kitchen and not a replacement.


After April 6 it will not be notifiable for any reason.
 
That will depend on your interpretation of "circuit".

IMO to use the one in BS 7671 which would bring all accessories and current using items into its scope is misguided.
 
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That will depend on your interpretation of "circuit".
IMO to use the one in BS 7671 which would bring all accessories and current using items into its scope is misguided.
Yes, I have made a mistake in my previous post if last night's deduction that changing an accessory or appliance would, by definition, 'alter' the circuit is correct.

However, in this thread, where connecting an oven (not cooker, I think) to an obviously adequate 'cooker' circuit where only a hob is connected, I'm afraid I lapsed into common sense mode.

Also, do you think this, under present rules, would count as a replacement even if a previous oven were removed a long time ago?
 
that will be notifiable as it's making a change to an existing circuit beyond repair/replacement.
That's not correct.
At the moment it may be notifiable if you class it as work in a kitchen and not a replacement.
After April 6 it will not be notifiable for any reason.
Just to be clear on this -

I was correct in my first reply (quoted).
After April 6 the 'additions or alterations to circuits' only applies 'within the zones of special locations'.

So, with the exception of 'new circuits' and 'consumer units' (should it happen to be there) no work in a kitchen will be notifiable.
 
I still havent made any progress on having this installed as my partner decided she would (in view of needing a sparky regardless) like a different oven which is a 3.5kW oven.

Am I right in thinking that all that is required is for the 10mm connection unit to be changed to a dual connection (this is fed from a 10mm cable to above unit 45dp switch and from a 10mm cable of length approx 10m to the consumer unit) and connection made to that. Or would this be an issue connecting both in terms of protection etc?

My intention is to get an electrician to do the work and I will get a price, however this will enable formative works such as removal of units for chasing cables and more accurate pricing etc. Hence my want for a full understanding and a "signed off" route by her indoors before getting someone out.
 
Am I right in thinking that all that is required is for the 10mm connection unit to be changed to a dual connection (this is fed from a 10mm cable to above unit 45dp switch and from a 10mm cable of length approx 10m to the consumer unit) and connection made to that.
Yes.

Or would this be an issue connecting both in terms of protection etc?
Technically - no.

However, for DIY, I would advise changing the oven flex to 4mm² heat resistant flex then the protection will be satisfactory - assuming it is on a 32A mcb or 30A fuse.
 

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