Connecting a shower room illuminated cabinert

[Rogeranerley]

My 'just arrived' IP44 rated cabinet has a cable at the rear. The instructions show this cable being connected to the lighting cable feed by a simple 3 terminal screw block inside a wall void. There's very little space between the back of the cabinet and the wall; just about enough for a wall plate. However, with the wall being plasterboard to which tiles will be added, it's easy to create a void using a single gang dry lining box......but what cover can I use?

I've searched Screwfix, Wickes and Tool Station, but can't find a cover plate that offers a simple cable entry. I don't want a fused connection as any failure there will require taking down the 20 kg cabinet

Any suggestions most welcome.

Thanks.

 

[securespark]

Well, unless you have MF connections, that joint needs to be accessible.

How about a flex outlet?

http://www.clearance-center.co.uk/A...currency=GBP&gclid=CKONoJKV9cgCFQgFwwodLRkG1w

 

[securespark]

Or if you have a stud wall, cut a hole in it where the flex needs to go through big enough to fit an MF JB.

Then join the cable to the flex.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I've searched Screwfix, Wickes and Tool Station, but can't find a cover plate that offers a simple cable entry. I don't want a fused connection as any failure there will require taking down the 20 kg cabinet

Flex plates exist, but as you are making a joint it requires to be accessible for maintenance, inspection and testing purposes. So if not accessible you cannot do as you propose! Can you form the connection so it is accessible on the reverse side of the wall? Is there also provision in place for RCD protection?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Can you form the connection so it is accessible on the reverse side of the wall?

Or can you replace the cable to the cabinet with one long enough to pass through/up/down/whatever the wall, ceiling/floor etc to reach the point where it connects to the circuit?

However - safe routes for cables.

I'm by no means sure that an item of furniture creates zones the height and width of it. Could the cable run up/down within 150mm of a corner? What about having an FCU, or just a blanking plate, directly above the cabinet? Would that be unacceptably obtrusive?

with the wall being plasterboard to which tiles will be added

Check in the Tiling section to see if tilebacker board might be better?

 

[stillp]

I don't want a fused connection as any failure there will require taking down the 20 kg cabinet

So what will happen if there is a fault in the cabinet? Will the supplied cable be adequately protected by the overcurrent protective device for the circuit?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's hard to imagine how small a cable would have to be for a lighting circuit OPD to not provide adequate fault protection.

The instructions show this cable being connected to the lighting cable feed

 

[stillp]

Have you seen the cables on some of these illuminated cabinets?

 

[Rogeranerley]

Wow....thanks guys for all the suggestions.

Regarding tiling, I'm using aquapanel all round in the shower area and 12.5 plasterboard elsewhere as in the main bathroom. The cabinet is being sited on the wall some 4 feet from the shower enclosure.

This morning I managed to locate a very slim (11 mm) 20A flex outlet plate incorporating a screw terminal block from CEF. This has a knockout slot at the base as well as a drilling point for central access of the flex. As the cabinet could be dismounted if needed, I'm viewing this as an accessible connection. If this isn't permitted, I could remove the screw terminals and use Wago connectors inside the cavity. By fixing the cavity box flush with the plaster board and tiling around the plate, it will comfortably allow the cabinet to lay against the tiled surface.

The lighting feed for all 5 amp electrical equipment in this and the adjoining bedroom will be running from a 6 amp RCBO the electrician is going to add to the CU.

Please let me know if this idea creates any issues.

Again, thanks for all the comments.

PS. Found an less stressful way to fix the 1600 x 800 mm 65 kg stone shower tray onto a prepared 18 mm marine ply base. As I can access the waste fixing after installation, I fixed three 10 x 20 mm batons to the floor screwing down only on the lengths protruding beyond the final tray location. Used a straight edge across the 20 mm baton height as a guide for laying the mortar slab. The wife and me then eased the tray onto the protruding baton ends and slowly slid the tray into place before unscrewing and gently drawing out the batons. We then lightly pressed down ensuring a true level as per the maker's instructions. Before this, I attached 'Classiseal' up-stand around the 3 edges bordering the enclosure.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Please let me know if this idea creates any issues.

Will the cable be within 150mm of a corner?

If not, will there be a visible accessory to create a zone for the cable to run in?

 

[Rogeranerley]

Not sure what you mean, ban-all-sheds

The feed cable (still to be connected up to the lighting circuit) has already been installed into what is still the open carcass partition frame awaiting boarding and tiling. This drop point from the ceiling is some 1000 mm from a corner. The cabinet flex is to be attached via the outlet plate at a height of some 1800 mm

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So it's not within 150mm of the corner, and the cabinet will render the outlet plate invisible, therefore, IMO, removing the zone it would otherwise create for the cable to be in.

Unacceptable, and unlawfully dangerous.

 

[Rogeranerley]

Thanks ban-all-sheds, I see what you mean.

The partition depth between the 2 rooms between each finished surface will be 150 mm, placing a centering of the light circuit cable at around 70 mm,, which I thought was OK as its beyond the 50 mm specified in the regs. If I put this cable into metal trunking such as 22 mm copper tube, would that not count as effective shielding?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah - OK - if it's that deep it will be fine, and doesn't need any mechanical protection either. Sorry not to ask about the depth - it's rare for cables to be deep enough for the route not to need to be in a recognised zone.

 

[Rogeranerley]

Thanks for your quick reply and advice. It's helped me understand more about cable zoning I'd not initially taken account of. Us DIYers greatly appreciate your and others' professional guidance.