Constant Water Trickling Down Toilet Bowl (Inside)

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I was a bit p*ssed off when I first read your response, but I completely understand why you posted it.

However, I would retort that this thread is the second most popular Google search in the UK for the product name + the problem description. This was the only reason I found this site last night - after weeks of metered trickling water hell and nagging from the lady boss of the house.

It was the lack of a clear technical solution on this thread that led me to pop the top of the cylinder and work it out for myself.

I thought that by sharing my solution on this site that possibly countless other poor s0ds who bought this product may benefit if they do a Google search. I signed up right away to share my experience (which is unusual for me).

I am aware that the previous thread comments ceased last summer, but I don't agree that buying a replacement product counts as having resolved the problem (on a DIY forum).

I was actually asking for feedback from new persons who may find this thread to see if they can find fault with my solution, and in so doing, help the diy knowledge base for this cr@ppy product.

Anyway, at least my wife is happy that my solution works so thank Jesus for a bit of peace and this will counter balance any criticism I get for this defensive response to your rather innocent comment!

Best regards anyway.

Des
 
OK understood, but what you should have done in IMHO was post a new thread explaining what you have done and how you fixed your issue, may have got more comments.,
 
What everybody should do is dump syphons, dump flush valves, fit a flapper.
I'll not bother with anything else. Dual, adjustable flush, so little to go wrong, so easy to repair in the unlikely event it does.
 
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OK understood, but what you should have done in IMHO was post a new thread explaining what you have done and how you fixed your issue, may have got more comments.,

Fair enough. New to this internet forums business.

The moral of my story should be: Don't buy anything from B&Q or Homebase. Go to a proper specialist retailer with a builder and get a good product with 40% off.

I am a mug for buying my suite at B&Q.
 
You are absolutely right on that one, B & Poo as they are affectionately known ;)
 
It was the lack of a clear technical solution on this thread that led me to pop the top of the cylinder and work it out for myself.

I am aware that the previous thread comments ceased last summer, but I don't agree that buying a replacement product counts as having resolved the problem (on a DIY forum).

Best regards anyway.

Des

Crikey it's all gone off on here :) Thought I'd just respond to the above points.

I should have mentioned that buying a new cylinder has indeed fixed the problem I was having, you might note that mine had a securing lug that had snapped off, this meant the cylinder was loose in the socket and could be moved from side to side, as such I do think that the only solution to my particular problem was to buy a new securely fitting cylinder to provide a good seal.

I have heard of the WD40 solution you've mentioned and I tried it myself, it can be found in a couple of other places on Google, it didn't work for me unfortunately so while it's appreciated I'm afraid it isn't the definitive answer to all problems like.
 
Guess What?

My blooming flush mechanism has jammed again a couple of times.

I might have to climb down from my high horse and go and buy another unit. The prospect of spending 20 minutes every two weeks wasting my time on this poxy flusher doesn't seem that appealing any more.

WD40? Whose stupid idea was that? oh.....wait a minute.

Arrrgghh!!!!

Des
 
In your first picture there is a big white bit and a big blue bit, you need to replace the big white bit, there is a seal at the bottom which has perished.

Not the best description i grant you, but i hope it makes sense.

I have a similiar problem but the water is trickling out onto the bathroom floor when the tank is full and more water pressure is excerted onto the seal.

I found all of this advice very helpful and set to work removing the 'big white bit' to inspect the condition of the seal. PROBLEM- The overflow pipe (as shown in my picture 1) sticks out too far so that as I turn the unit counter-clockwise 1/4 a turn, it hits the side wall of the cistern preventing me from completing the turn (my picture 2). I've tried taking the pipe off but it's mounting is onto a piece of plastic that comes out of the 'big white bit' at its base meaning that whether the over flow pipe is on or off, I still can't turn the 'big white bit' far enough to unscrew it. Very frustrating!

Surely I'm missing something as they got it in there? I must be able to get it out some how right?

HELP!

Picture 1

Picture 2
 
Surely I'm missing something as they got it in there? I must be able to get it out some how right?
They got it in by fitting the mechanism and base still attached to each other into the cistern.
The 1/4 turn is to release the mechanism from the base.
View media item 42722
I think your only option really is to remove the cistern from the pan.
 
I know it's been a while since this post was responded to but my unit has recently failed and thought others may like to know I have managed to fix it using a piece of rubber band!!
Will try to put a story board together with pictures but herewith in words.
Note this is to repair the weeping/ trickling inlet valve issue, the big blue bit at the top of the picture at the start of this thread. (the big white bit went as well but by squirting wd40 down the pipe containing the wire may have been resolved...why do these things go together??).
Isolate the incoming water, my unit is a side inlet but the main mechanism should be the same, now you should be able to undo the valve from the cistern tank. With the valve out of the tank you should see some black rubber seals in one end, this is not the main problem but removing these (remembering how they go together) and cleaning them will not hurt. These seals are part of the pressure and noise reduction of the inlet and have little bearing on the main shut off mechanism which is....part of the white arm attached to the float! (slender white piece coming out the top) If you investigate how it works it doesn't look like it does anything, which it should, I was wondering why it didn't when pulling it up and down to get the water to stop running? The arm hinges on a pivot(in the picture you may have to remove the blue cap carefully to get to the arm pivot) to which there is a rubber seal hidden in the pivot point, it is this seal that is failing!!! I prized the arm off it's clipped in position using a flat blade screwdriver to reveal the very small round rubber seal which had a score mark on it where it had been contacting the equally tiny hole in the valve...this is where the water makes it final journey into the tank and it this tiny hole that is not sealing because the rubber seal is not high enough?? either through poor mfg or the rubber seal has compressed too much? After prizing the round rubber seal out of the arm using a very small precision screwdriver this reveals the plastic mount hole behind it, you need to build this up a very small amount, less than 0.5mm!! Being the thrifty type I found a rubber band and started to hack off a very small piece (I guess you could use PTFE tape or aluminium foil at a push) and reassembled the seal, now slightly higher than it was, and clipped the arm back into position on the valve, it will sit lower than before so make sure it can still move up and down, if it's tight you have packed too much into the hole!(ooh err)! Re-assemble the valve and turn the water back on! It may squeak a bit for the first few flushes but that goes away and at least this cured my problem?!? and without any extra money spent. It may also sound slightly louder but at least it is not wasting anymore water...been working fine for over 5 days now
:mrgreen:
 
Hi guys.
I know it's now july 31st 2014 but I want to thank the writer who asked the question ref leaking cistern Macdee Universal Cistern Fittings AFV50100 and the chap who provided the answer back in 2012. Mine is faulty now. Sometimes it would flush twice and I could push the little button in when I flush to stop it but not that does not work. I had to turn the white/blue valve know 1/4 turn clockwise to stop water. Now I can proceed having read your answers.
Good old metal ball valve lasted longer than this plastic rubbish that is only 3 years old.

Here is what to do:

Remove the whole MacDee unit with a quarter turn anti-clockwise as described earlier in the thread. You will notice 4 backets on the top of the big white sealed cyliner. You can carefully pop this open with the base of a tea spoon (being careful not to crack the unit).

Inside you will see its a very, very basic design with what is effectively a bicycle brake cable from the push button unit, pulling on a little pully device which lifts the plunger at the base. The trouble is that the pully /plunger assembly is on 2 guide rails on the inside of the unit and it gets stuck and gravity can't pull it closed after you press the button.

Here's what I did:

I cleaned the guide rails with some tissue and smoothed them down so any limscale residue and gunk was gone. I then sprayed a load of WD40 onto the guide rails and the pully mechanism and then pulled on the cable repeatidly to get the WD40 to move around and do its buisness.

(Maybe this bit was overkill but I also disconnected the cable on both ends and cleaned the visible parts - the was some gunk and, after taking the spray diffuser off the WD40 can I forced a whole load of WD40 down inside the cable sheath - again pulling the cable a couple of dozen times to move the WD40 around.)

It has been perfect ever since.

I fully expect it to go wrong again in a few months but 5 minutes of diy and a couple of squirts of WD40 later it will be sorted, and that's better than spending £15.99 on another piece of potentially defective plastic.

Good luck all with this! Please post any positive or negative results.

Des
 
Hey guys I have the same prob with my Macdee Universal Cistern Fittings AFV50100. Love all you banter though guys makes me laugh even though we can all do without this time wasting & cost.

However, I have to go through this on mine now - chuffing plastic rubbish, feel like a maintenace manager in my house.
Many thanks for info.

Guess What?

My blooming flush mechanism has jammed again a couple of times.

I might have to climb down from my high horse and go and buy another unit. The prospect of spending 20 minutes every two weeks wasting my time on this poxy flusher doesn't seem that appealing any more.

WD40? Whose stupid idea was that? oh.....wait a minute.

Arrrgghh!!!!

Des
 
Hi there,
Just to revive this thread from the ashes again, our AFV50100 has also turned into an interesting water feature on occasions. We've been able to manage it by either repeatedly pressing the flush button to make the pouring stop or as a preventative measure pressing only the small flush button instead of the large one. Unfortunately though, after a year of this treatment the bog isn't playing ball anymore and so we've had to revert to removing the cistern lid and pressing the little button on the cistern remote which connects to the flush button. In any case, even though the boss has removed the screws from the remote and cleaned inside it, it's probably only a matter of time before the loo lid is dropped and a big bill ensues. I wonder whether any of you might be able to advise what this part is now called so I can hop to B & poo and buy a new one. I saw that this company has changed hands on many occasions so I'd like to make sure I'm buying the right bit. Hope you can help! Thanks in advance.
 

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