Convert toilet from ex to internal overflow

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Hi
I'm a DIYer and just moved house. Our toilet is close coupled and has an external overflow but the pipe is broken flush with the wall outside. My question is, can the cistern internals be easily changed to convert it to internal overflow or do I need a new cistern?

If it can be converted what parts do I need and what is involved?

Cheers & thanks, Steveo
 
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the internal overflow is part of the syphon .
is it a dual flush cistern or just the standard lever flush ?
 
HI

can buy syphons with internal overflows easily obtainable from plumbing merchants and you dont have to change cisterns in most cases
 
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he may already have an internal overflow. just cause the cistern is using a external doesn't mean the syphon hasn't got an internal one already.
you don't have to change the cistern in any case
 
do you get a syphon with an internal overflow? or does the water not simply run into the wc bowl because the level has increased inside the syphon to the point where it reachs the top of the vertical part and then falls into the bowl, due to the top of the syphon being lower than top of the cistern or the handle (where it would start to leak)
i can't remember the def size (and it probably depends on the height of the cistern as well,) but if you want an internal (country pattern) syphon you bought a 9", and if you want an external (town pattern) you bought an 11"
in this instance why change a £15 syphon and £5 close coupled kit when you could renew the overflow pipe itself?
 
Hi and thanks for all the replies. I want to do away with external overflow and replace the innards of the cistern (there manky anyway) and have internal overflow.

I'm looking at the Screwfix book and looks like I'll need:
Bottom entry ball valve & ball float.
Siphon, not sure what size 241mm or 203mm.
Lever assembly.
Blanking plug in place of overflow. What size, has it a name?

How do I tell what size of siphon and what's involved in fitting it?

TIA
 
the height of the syphon required is relevant to the height of the ballcock and edge of cistern, if the ballcock doesn't shut off the cistern overfills the syphon will fill up internally and spill down into the pan, if you have an existing external one it will be higher than the top of the internal overflow so that the water goes down the overflow, you need one that is shorter than the existing, to renew it you need to lay an old newspaper in the bath, isolate the water, flush the cistern and mop up the residual water, disconnect the water and o/flow pipe, remove the wing nuts from the two bolts where the cistern is bolted to the pan and carefully lift the cistern clear, place the cistern on its side in the bath on the paper so not to mark the bath, remove the donut washer plastic jam nut and washers, refit the new syphon in reverse, make sure it is lined up with the cistern handle rod, loosen the nut of the ballvalve, remove and refit the new one, sit the cistern upright and make sure the arm of the ballvalve doesn't jam on the syphon, refit a new donut washer and bolts, refit through the pan, tighten wing nuts and reconnect supply pipe, hopefully i haven't missed anything and it should all be ok!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Kirkgas
Thanks for the reply and advice. I'm about to order up the parts from Screwfix and have a go at the weekend.

PS is getting a good seal between the base of the siphon and the cistern easy enough? does it rely on a washer or do you need a sealant?

Thanks again.
 
it is straightforward to seal the syphon using only the washers, in fact if you overtighten the nut you are likely to have a problem, tighten it up until the syphon doesn't spin and that should be ok,
 
Kirkgas
Fitted new siphon and new rubber doughnut kit at the weekend. Turns out there is a small leak between cistern & pan, looks like a leak from the siphon. Looks like cistern will need to come off again - any tips for a good seal? also which way should the doughnut be fitted - flat side to the cistern or the pan.
 

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