Cooker & Hob wired in

[tellytv]

Wondering if someone could help me

I've had a new kitchen fitted, however the person fitted it has wired the cooker into the left switch below and the hob into the right switch?

is this correct? as I thought the right switch was a cooker one?

Thanks

 

[flameport]

Yes, an electric hob will use far more power than a single oven, and therefore require a larger rating of switch. A single oven is typically connected via a 13A fuse either as with the left switch, or with a 13A plug.

Although they are frequently sold as 'cooker switches' the red one is just a switch of a certain rating, usually 45A. It could be used for a cooker, hob, shower or many other items.

Cooker in this instance means a single appliance containing a hob and an oven, which would also be connected via a 45A switch.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, it is correct.

The hob uses more power than the oven.
A cooker without an oven is just a hob.

I would have wired it so that big red switch also turns of the oven.

Whilst it may be called cooker switch it is, after all, just a switch; you can use it for a light if you want.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Shame about one cross-head screw.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I've had a new kitchen fitted, however the person fitted it has wired the cooker into the left switch below and the hob into the right switch?
is this correct? as I thought the right switch was a cooker one?

Well it would depend on the rating of each appliance, is the hob electric or gas?
Is the oven electric or gas?
Are either electric or gas?
Do you know the output of each appliance(if electric) and the rating of the protective devices?
The picture only show the switch/iso plates, without more detail, how can this question be answered?

I assume by cooker, you mean oven? As I would expect an electric cooker to be isolated by a 45A isolation switch, rather than a 13A FCU.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Well it would depend on the rating of each appliance,

Whilst that is obviously correct; what do you expect the replies to indicate?

is the hob electric or gas?
Is the oven electric or gas?

does it matter?

Are either electric or gas?

Should never assume but what else is there?

Do you know the output of each appliance(if electric) and the rating of the protective devices?

Do you think they may be more than expected?

The picture only show the switch/iso plates, without more detail, how can this question be answered?

The question was only related to the wiring method.

I assume by cooker, you mean oven? As I would expect an electric cooker to be isolated by a 45A isolation switch, rather than a 13A FCU.

Safe to assume that, I think.
Do you think it likely that there is a hob and a cooker?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

does it matter

Well if the hob was gas and the oven/cooker is electrical rated at greater than 20A, it would.

Should never assume but what else is there?

There are ones that operate on solid fuel and oil.

Do you think they may be more than expected?

I don't know the situation, that is why I ask.

The question was only related to the wiring method.

And not concerning the loads they are under?

Safe to assume that, I think.
Do you think it likely that there is a hob and a cooker?

In my time I have come across arrangements, where a domestic property owner has had more than one oven and more than one hob. So I do not know what to expect. What is likely is not a factor, what is, is!

 

[conny]

Always expect the unexpected hey, PBoD?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Always expect the unexpected, but make sure that the unexpected never expects you.

 

[JohnW2]

There are ones that operate on solid fuel and oil.

There are - but, although I accept that one should 'never assume', since the OP told us that the 'cooker' (he presumably must mean oven) was wired through an FCU and the hob was wired through a ~45A switch, I think that, on this occasion, it is a very reasonable assumption that both are electric

In my time I have come across arrangements, where a domestic property owner has had more than one oven and more than one hob.

Indeed, but the (singular) words I have highlighted above seem to indicate that there is only one of each - and it also seems inconceivable that anyone would have wired a true cooker (oven+hob) to an FCU when there was a 45A switch a couple of inches away!

Kind Regards, John

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

All assumptions!
I asked perfectly reasonable questions, in the quest to offer the OP, the best possible advise they could have from a remote location.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, but this was the question:

I've had a new kitchen fitted, however the person fitted it has wired the cooker into the left switch below and the hob into the right switch?
is this correct? as I thought the right switch was a cooker one?

Unless you think it should be the other way round then the answer is "Yes".

 

[JohnW2]

All assumptions! I asked perfectly reasonable questions, in the quest to offer the OP, the best possible advise they could have from a remote location.

No-one can deny that both your approach and your questions are, strictly speaking, 'reasonable' - but, as EFLI has just said, the answer to the OP's question is clearly 'yes'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Unless you think it should be the other way round then the answer is "Yes".

I can think about a yes/no answer, as it would be a complete guess, without more detail in the the loading aspects of the appliances. That is why I asked, what I considered the relevant questions. Like I said there are ovens that are rated at 20A+, if that was the case, then we could say the answer would not be Yes!

 

[JohnW2]

I can think about a yes/no answer, as it would be a complete guess, without more detail in the the loading aspects of the appliances. That is why I asked, what I considered the relevant questions.

Again you are strictly correct to feel uncertain - but the answer to the OP's question would only be "no" if you think that the hob should have been connected via an FCU - which would very rarely be either appropriate or safe.

Kind Regards, John