Cooker Hood wiring...

[Umy786]

I'm installing my cooker hood this weekend and would like some help please

I have attached 2 diagrams to show what I am proposing to do

Fig 1

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• Umy786
• 27 May 2015
• 1

Fig 2

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• Umy786
• 27 May 2015
• 1

Which of the 2 diagrams attached would be an acceptable way of wiring the cooker hood in

From reading a few posts in the forum I believe I need to wire the hood into an FCU but which of the 2 methods shown above would be considered the most compliant?

The third option (and most easiest as the rooms floor boards are still loose after a bathroom install) but could I wire the hood into the upstairs sockets ring by spurring off that with an FCU?, it is my last choise as I'd prefer to have all the kitchen components connected to the one mains switch

Thanks for your help

NB: I realise the wire to the hood is showing infront of the splashback but I'd be chasing it into the wall behind it and up to the hood and then installing the splashback over it

 

[flameport]

Neither option is acceptable, do it like this:

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• flameport
• 27 May 2015
• 1

Hood can be an FCU or a plug & socket. 3A fuse.

 

[JohnW2]

Which of the 2 diagrams attached would be an acceptable way of wiring the cooker hood in ... From reading a few posts in the forum I believe I need to wire the hood into an FCU but which of the 2 methods shown above would be considered the most compliant? ... I realise the wire to the hood is showing infront of the splashback but I'd be chasing it into the wall behind it and up to the hood and then installing the splashback over it

It's no simple and, unfortunately, neither of those options would be compliant with regs - since in neither case are the (to be buried) cables in 'safe zones' throughout their lengths. In essence, buried cables need to be (horizontally or vertically) in-line with accessories (switches, sockets, FCUs etc. to which they are connected, so most of the the right-angled bends in your cable routes would not be acceptable. Your first option is very non-compliant in that respect. The second is more interesting, but still non-compliant as drawn.

The third option (and most easiest as the rooms floor boards are still loose after a bathroom install) but could I wire the hood into the upstairs sockets ring by spurring off that with an FCU?, it is my last choise as I'd prefer to have all the kitchen components connected to the one mains switch

There would still be a requirement for any buried cable to be in the 'safe zone' created by a visible accessory.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Neither option is acceptable, do it like this:

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• flameport
• 27 May 2015
• 1

Hood can be an FCU or a plug & socket. 3A fuse.

If there is not a reasonably visible accessory at the top of the vertical run to the hood, I would think that would be rather stretching the definition of a 'safe zone', wouldn't it?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Simon35]

Neither option is acceptable, do it like this:

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• flameport
• 27 May 2015
• 1

Hood can be an FCU or a plug & socket. 3A fuse.

How is that bit of vertical cable up into the cooker hood in a safe zone?

If you went up vertically from the cooker FCU?? in the middle, up to the safe zone at the top of the wall, then along into the cooker hood chimney and an outlet there, I believe that would be compliant.

 

[JohnW2]

How is that bit of vertical cable up into the cooker hood in a safe zone?

As I just wrote, I don't really think it would be.

If you went up vertically from the cooker FCU?? in the middle, up to the safe zone at the top of the wall, then along into the cooker hood chimney and an outlet there, I believe that would be compliant.

Yes, provided that the 'outlet' was also within the safe zone at the top of the wall, I think that would work.

Kind Regards, John

 

[flameport]

How is that bit of vertical cable up into the cooker hood in a safe zone?

There would be a socket outlet or FCU at the end of it where the hood connects.

 

[JohnW2]

How is that bit of vertical cable up into the cooker hood in a safe zone?

There would be a socket outlet or FCU at the end of it where the hood connects.

Yes, but as I said/asked, would it be 'reasonably visible'? I suspect not, in which case I would say that it would be outside of at least the spirit (the 'word' is not very explicit) of the concept of a 'safe zone', wouldn't it?

Kind Regards, John

 

[flameport]

It's not visible if the hood is in place, but neither is the outlet behind the cooker or oven.

Or any other appliance, bookcase, wardrobe, bed, etc.

 

[JohnW2]

It's not visible if the hood is in place, ....

Quite, which is why personally feel that it is probably outside of the spirit of a safe zone.

... but neither is the outlet behind the cooker or oven. Or any other appliance, bookcase, wardrobe, bed, etc.

Whilst one can do nothing about bits of furniture which get moved around after a cable is installed (which could effectively destroy the identifiability of virtually any accessory-created safe zone), I would say that all of those examples are, at least partially, 'different'. One would not normally be drilling into a wall which was normally hidden behind a cooker, wardrobe etc, without first exposing the wall, hence seeing the accessory. In the case we're discussing, there would be a fair bit of buried cable below the hood (which was concealing the accessory) just 'waiting to be drilled into'.

For example ... I personally would not rely on the part of a 'safe zone' above counter height which was theoretically created by an accessory below the counter and behind a cooker or other semi-fixed appliance, would you?

Kind Regards, John

 

[deadshort]

Good luck flameport


DS

 

[Umy786]

I have taken the comments on board and have amended the diagram

I forgot to mention that the space between worktops & units will be tiled (as per the green lines), I also omitted the fact there's a gas connection on the left hand side of the cooker space, would this affect any cabling running upwards?

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• Umy786
• 27 May 2015
• 1

To be clear to all concerned, the cabling behind the worktops will not be channeled in until they come out across from behind the worktop, I would however cover any wires behind that cannot be channeled in with round round PVC conduit to show that there is cabling behind the units , once clear from the units I would then channel up to where the connection will be to the chimney by running some extended flex directly from the the chimney to the FCU above worktop level next to the other socket which the spur will be taken from

Would there be any issues with this?

If so, couild someone please show me a diagram (or amend one of mine) that would be compliant?[/url]

 

[JohnW2]

I have taken the comments on board and have amended the diagram...

Are you saying that all of the cables (or conduit containing them - which isn't really necessary) below counter level will be 'on the surface' and visible? If so, then your latest proposal would probably satisfy flameport - although, as I have said, I would personally not be very comfortable with it. Simon35's idea is the non-contentious one of all the suggestions that have been made.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

If so, couild someone please show me a diagram (or amend one of mine) that would be compliant?

What Simon35 proposed was as shown in the blue line I have added here:

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• JohnW2
• 27 May 2015
• 1

Provided the horizontal run at the top was within 150mm of the ceiling, that would be compliant.

Kind Regards, John

 

[deadshort]

Yes that's ideal, just on the fixing point for the wall unit !

Regards,

DS