Coving

[FilthyMcNastys]

Hi,
I'm try to put some coving up, but can't get the angles right, any idea whats the best way? i've tried a mitre box doing a 45° left cut and right cut but doesn't work?

Thanks

 

[TheDec]

Difficult if you don't now how and I can understand your frustration, coving reacts in a different way as perhaps a skirting would. Thats all to do with it's shape.

Chances are that you are cutting the coving flat as opposed to the angle of which it will meet the wall, if I tried to talk you through the correct approach here I would only confuse you more.

Go to B&Q or Wickes where for a few £s you can buy a cove mitre guide, that will solve your problem . Be aware though that both internal and external corners are seldom true so further works may be needed.

Good luck

Dec.

 

[opps]

you need to remember that you are working upside down to begin with. Then use the frame saw/mitre box accordingly.Try to cut as though you were cutting from above, ie the room upstairs- it might help perception-wise. I use my Nobex saw and put ablock on it to ensure that the angle of cut is consistant.

Chalk line the areas otherwise there is the risk that you will run out and the internal corners will not match

 

[Richard C]

I'm try to put some coving up

Don’t do it; square edge, flat plastered ceilings are very "IN" fashion now.

 

[joe-90]

Richard is right of course. Richard's the daddy. Ignore his sage advice at your peril.

 

[Richard C]

Richard is right of course. Richard's the daddy. Ignore his sage advice at your peril.

You blowing that smoke again joe should I go & check that double edged sword isn't sticking outa my asre

 

[FilthyMcNastys]

Can you use an ordinary mitre box? or does it have to be one for coving? I've been reading on some sites it has to be, like this one

http://www.coveasy.com/

 

[TheDec]

You can if you wish use an ordinary mitre box yet you have'nt had much luck with it so far. The product contained within your link will take away the guesswork, so go for it if you wish.

Dec.

 

[Richard C]

As may be obvious form my previous post, I no longer fit (or much like ) coving if I can avoid it; there is much less demand for it now as well.

All I ever use is the paper templates in their brochure; one for internal & one for external mitres (make sure you get the rigth size for your coving);
http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/Gyproc_cove_100_Mitre_template.pdf
They work just as well as an expensive mitre box, providing you can use a saw correctly.

 

[opps]

It might help you if you remember that the cut (/join) on the underside lip of the coving will be at 45 degrees whereas the ceiling cut (/join) will be at 90 degrees.

This means that when using a frame saw or mitre box you need to turn the coving upside down. Because you are cutting from above you will end up doing the 45 degree cut on what will become the underside lip, as the cut continues it will terminate with a 90 degree cut, ie the top lip.

I have mocked up a simple image to try to illustrate what I mean.

The use of chalk lines (or pencil marks) means that you can measure the distances on the walls (and not the ceilings) to determine how long to cut the coving. The wall measurements are more important than the ceiling ones because you are cutting the coving upside down.

I hope this helps, it is daunting to begin with but once you can work in the wrong plane it is pretty easy. Internal and external corners will become obvious

IF your mitre block is the right size that should give you a very accurate cut, if it is to big then put a wedge in to ensure that the coving is sitting at the correct angle.

In the event that I am confusing you please let me know. Currently sitting in a pub waiting for the tube strike traffic to die down before i take a 7 mile bus journey.

Cheers

 

[Robbie uk]

Much easier to use a plastic cove template from wickes £1.99. used one for years. Yas the walls could be out slightly but they can always be filled with artex / adhesive.

 

[tommyl18]

just another few points always make sure the writing is the right way up on the back of the coving and that you use the same manufacturer as you will find british gypsum will not sit right against lafarge

 

[finfloor]

Much easier to use a plastic cove template from wickes £1.99. used one for years. Yas the walls could be out slightly but they can always be filled with artex / adhesive.

Hi,
I agree with you that in using plastic cover can be durable at the same time affordable one..

 

[KevW]

Hi,
I got a coseasy from these guys on eBay, saved me a headache as the instructions are gold!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Status-Co...5-127mm-/161872071442?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT