Curved door not latching on plate

[stats101]

Our bathroom door is curved inwards such that the door doesn't latch at all (the top and bottom touch the wood, but the middle part doesn't reach the plate.

Easiest thing to do I guess is move the metal plate forward by a centimeter. Are there alternative suggestions? I read somewhere else about unscrewing the door and turning it around. Can the wood itself be easily straightened?

 

[Porque223]

I guess moisture warped this [wood?] door. From the warp direction the interior surface expanded more than the exterior surface.
Do you have a bathroom fan?

 

[Burnerman]

The door won't straighten again...either consider replacing it or moving the lock keep out a bit so it catches.
A few centimetres hell thats some warp!
John

 

[pinenot]

How much of a warp? 1 - 2 - 3 > 10mm???

 

[JohnD]

what sort of door? panelled, flush?

how old is it? how many coats of paint?

how long has it been warped?

 

[stats101]

How much of a warp? 1 - 2 - 3 > 10mm???

Updated my post above. The middle part of the door is around 1 cm out from the frame.

 

[stats101]

what sort of door? panelled, flush?

how old is it? how many coats of paint?

how long has it been warped?

We just moved into the house, so can't answer on coats and age, however it is a paneled door

 

[big-all]

you could move the door stop instead
or a bit off both [door stop 2mm top and bottom and lock plate 4mm and push the door to close the other 2mm

 

[pinenot]

I wonder if stripping the door would do any good, certainly wetting the concave side would swell it but whether it would come true is the dilemma...pinenot

 

[pinenot]

I wonder if stripping the door would do any good, certainly wetting the concave side would swell it but whether it would come true is the dilemma...pinenot

 

[JohnD]

you say it is a panelled door.

very often they can be bent back to shape and the old paint in the joints will hold them there.

put wooden blocks top and bottom and and push hard against the midddle. There will be a loud cracking noise from the paint. you will have to bend it a bit beyond flat as it will spring back a bit.

knowing how old the house is would give you a clue of the age of the door. Some photos would help us.

 

[stats101]

you say it is a panelled door.

very often they can be bent back to shape and the old paint in the joints will hold them there.

put wooden blocks top and bottom and and push hard against the midddle. There will be a loud cracking noise from the paint. you will have to bend it a bit beyond flat as it will spring back a bit.

knowing how old the house is would give you a clue of the age of the door. Some photos would help us.

the house is around a 100 years old, but the door looks more modern.

Pictures below.

The 1cm gap in the door:

Untitled

• stats101
• 22 May 2013
• 1

The curvature:

Untitled

• stats101
• 22 May 2013
• 1

Untitled

• stats101
• 22 May 2013
• 1

 

[Porque223]

I've never tried this, but
you could make full width horizontal cuts on each side of the door near the door center.
Wide wedges are driven into the cuts on one surface to lengthen that door surface vertically and then all the cuts are patched over. Therefore, one cut width is expanded and the other opposite cut width is reduced.

The depth of the cuts, how many cuts and the strength of the wood determines how much curvature can be reasonably cancelled out.

This does somewhat weaken the door's ability to resist bending but the door will not be subjected to bending forces if it is straight enough vertically.

How much for a new door and how much is your labor worth, per hour?

 

[JohnD]

'hmmmmmm.

 

[Porque223]

'hmmmmmm.

Good answer!