I have to replace section of roof, it was relaid (twice) by a roofing contractor three years ago using the original slates but was messed up so badly the rafters are permanently wet and the slate is now beyond re-use. I have some new and unholed welsh slate and plan to strip and replace the roof over the next few weeks.
Purists will say that the slates must be cut and dressed in the traditional way, holes must be punched and the slates nailed down with copper, but I'm tempted to use other methods to do a durable job with novice skills and would appreciate opinions, whether for or against.
Cutting: Instead of a slaters axe I've tried using a powered tile cutter, it runs in water and makes a clean, straight and accurate cut with little effort. The only place the cut edge is visible on the roof is at a valley and where I've tried it on an isolated section the 'sharp' cut without the traditional dressing looks fine.
Holing: It's not difficult to hole in the traditional way but I prefer the certainty and precision of a drilled and countersunk hole. I've tried this on my test section (60 slates) and it's easy to get a hole that is a snug fit for the fastener, loses the head in the countersink while keeping as much slate as possible around the hole for strength.
Fixing: I've used some copper nails which seem ok but have also tried some stainless screws. I prefer the screws because they're more secure in the laths, have a greater contact area in the drilled/countersunk hole to spread the fixing load and it's easier to control the downforce on the slate. It's much easier to back off a screw than a nail if it seems a bit tight.
I've searched for advice about this and the only comment I can find advising against using screws is that they would be difficult to remove with a ripper if a slate needs repair. That said, the roof that was there before had lasted 170 years no with cracks or failures until my contractor wrecked it.
I've tried this on a small isolated section of roof and am happy with the results, I know it will be at least 100 years before anyone can say it was done properly but if I can make the rafters dry, look reasonably presentable and do 30 years or so of service that will do.
Sorry for the long post but genuinely interested to hear opinions, especially on the use of screws for fixing.
Purists will say that the slates must be cut and dressed in the traditional way, holes must be punched and the slates nailed down with copper, but I'm tempted to use other methods to do a durable job with novice skills and would appreciate opinions, whether for or against.
Cutting: Instead of a slaters axe I've tried using a powered tile cutter, it runs in water and makes a clean, straight and accurate cut with little effort. The only place the cut edge is visible on the roof is at a valley and where I've tried it on an isolated section the 'sharp' cut without the traditional dressing looks fine.
Holing: It's not difficult to hole in the traditional way but I prefer the certainty and precision of a drilled and countersunk hole. I've tried this on my test section (60 slates) and it's easy to get a hole that is a snug fit for the fastener, loses the head in the countersink while keeping as much slate as possible around the hole for strength.
Fixing: I've used some copper nails which seem ok but have also tried some stainless screws. I prefer the screws because they're more secure in the laths, have a greater contact area in the drilled/countersunk hole to spread the fixing load and it's easier to control the downforce on the slate. It's much easier to back off a screw than a nail if it seems a bit tight.
I've searched for advice about this and the only comment I can find advising against using screws is that they would be difficult to remove with a ripper if a slate needs repair. That said, the roof that was there before had lasted 170 years no with cracks or failures until my contractor wrecked it.
I've tried this on a small isolated section of roof and am happy with the results, I know it will be at least 100 years before anyone can say it was done properly but if I can make the rafters dry, look reasonably presentable and do 30 years or so of service that will do.
Sorry for the long post but genuinely interested to hear opinions, especially on the use of screws for fixing.
