Cylinder, coil pack or ignition cables?
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Yep, a good move mate, and get the cat stinking hot 
John
John
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It might well have been something you have changed on that cylinder lead and or coil pack, but the plug was that far gone it didn't recover.
I think its PARTY TIME ............
If the Gards (police) stop you about the NCT (or lack of one) show him/her the new spark plug and start at the beginning (page 1), bound to get a bit of sympathy? They can contact us at any time ..................
I bet you feel epic?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQ643U7ccpM
I think its PARTY TIME ............
If the Gards (police) stop you about the NCT (or lack of one) show him/her the new spark plug and start at the beginning (page 1), bound to get a bit of sympathy? They can contact us at any time ..................
I bet you feel epic?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQ643U7ccpM
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BUMP!! Yesterday, when driving home, the same symptoms returned. Flashing engine light for about 20 seconds, then solid engine light and the car was bumpy in general. Engine shaking much more than usual. So this morning, I went out to check the usual. I decided to start by checking the same spark plug as before, and sure enough the spark plug was dead. Is this proof that something more worrying is happening in the long run or is this a mere coincidence?
Also when I replaced the spark plug, the new one didn't seem to want to tighten fully. It was like the wrench just kept moving after a while, when the plug was in place? Anyway, I put it back together, turned the key and the engine sounds much better again. Though it might take a day or 2 for the engine light to reset.
Also when I replaced the spark plug, the new one didn't seem to want to tighten fully. It was like the wrench just kept moving after a while, when the plug was in place? Anyway, I put it back together, turned the key and the engine sounds much better again. Though it might take a day or 2 for the engine light to reset.
Difficult.....you've had 5 months of success but then the same plug has failed again?
It shouldn't matter, but what make of plugs are you using, and are they of the correct grade and type?
It does sound as if the threads in the alloy cylinder head are on their last legs, unfortunately so disturb the plug as little as possible now.
John
It shouldn't matter, but what make of plugs are you using, and are they of the correct grade and type?
It does sound as if the threads in the alloy cylinder head are on their last legs, unfortunately so disturb the plug as little as possible now.
John
Thanks John. Bosch WR7D+ is the plug I've just put in. The previous one was Bosch too, but I don't remember the exact number. All I know is the guy in the motor store gave me that one when I told him the make and model of the car.
I think that's the 3 electrode plug - it should be good for years!
So far, lets put it down to coincidence, but a new plug gives an easier life to both HT leads and the ignition coil so there may be a possible clue there somewhere.
John
So far, lets put it down to coincidence, but a new plug gives an easier life to both HT leads and the ignition coil so there may be a possible clue there somewhere.
John
I think that's the 3 electrode plug - it should be good for years!
So far, lets put it down to coincidence, but a new plug gives an easier life to both HT leads and the ignition coil so there may be a possible clue there somewhere.
John
That's the one!!
Let's hope anyway!So, I replaced a spark plu two months ago, and all was fine, and now, here I am getting the symptoms of a failing plug again! This will be the third time I've replaced it in about 7 months. I suppose the cylinder could be on the way out? I am going to replace the plug today to make sure that it is the plug, but I'd be shocked if it were anything else, considering the coil pack and the leads are only in there a few months.
I guess logic says that a compression test is needed on all cylinders.....whatever the readings are, they need to be approximately the same.
When you take the plug out, is it oily or discoloured in any way?
John
When you take the plug out, is it oily or discoloured in any way?
John
Hi John. Thanks for the reply. You may recall me telling you that the plug wouldn't go in very far and the conclusion was that perhaps the threads in the cylinder were on their last legs. So we got it in as far as we could and the car started and sounded well. And so now, I've just killed the rubber in my spark plug wrench trying to remove the plug that has the problem. I will have to buy a new wrench and try again. It was full of oil, which didn't help of course. I will try to dry the oil off the plug next time, before applying the new wrench. Clearly this is going to be a recurring problem. I didn't intend on keeping the car much beyond Christmas anyway, but apart from this issue, it is driving really well and never gave me much trouble. Do you think the cylinder is bunched? I mean if the threads no longer work, what chance do I have?
If you cannot screw plug fully into its hole the bottom of the thread might be damaged of caked in carbon.
You can get taps to re-thread where the plug fits but if you use one of these then keep the tap coated with grease and only do a turn or so at a time. Remove tap and regrease to stop any muck getting into cylinder bore.
You can get taps to re-thread where the plug fits but if you use one of these then keep the tap coated with grease and only do a turn or so at a time. Remove tap and regrease to stop any muck getting into cylinder bore.
have a look at 'spark plug thread chasers' ......these usually have hollowed areas where the grot collects, and if you grease this, the grot comes out too.
A wee bit of carbon dropping into the cylinder is no big deal, but you don't want metal swarf in there.
Oil in the plug well can be expected if the plug is loose or slack.
I use magnetic spark plug sockets - probably one of the most useful tools of all time!
John
A wee bit of carbon dropping into the cylinder is no big deal, but you don't want metal swarf in there.
Oil in the plug well can be expected if the plug is loose or slack.
I use magnetic spark plug sockets - probably one of the most useful tools of all time!
John
Update. So I went to Halfords and I bought a new (cheap) spark plug wrench. They told me a 14mm would be the correct size. I had my doubts as to whether it would fit in to take the old plug out though. It did fit perfectly around the 'NUT' part of the Spark Plug, but my suspicions were proven correct when it would not fit into the bay to get around the 'NUT' of the old spark plug. The old, and now all but useless wrench, was a 14mm at one end and a 5/8 at the other end. The 5/8 end was the part that used to go in and the rubber would grip the old spark plug and help me to twist and then pull it out. With the rubber on the old one destroyed, it can no longer grip the plug sufficiently to remove it. Finding a 5/8 wrench in Halford's might be difficult? What is 5/8 in mm does anyone know? Thanks.
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