detecting studs for fitting downlights

[utterlydiy]

I want to fit downlights around my kitchen overlooking the worktops.

Problem is I purchased a Stanely intellisensor stud finder, but because my ceiling has fairly rough Artex. The finder has a problem in finding the ceiling studs or spacers so I can avoid them and fit the lamps and lay the cables.

I intend to lay some of the cabling behind the coving around the walls/ceiling and then loop to the lamps avoiding any of the studs and spacers.

Any tips of finding the studs etc.

thanks

 

[pjcomp]

Lift the floor in the room above, or just bite the bullet, cut holes in the ceiling and get it replastered afterwards.

PJ

 

[Taylortwocities]

Aye, you can tell, more or less, from the floor of the room above.

You are going to have to lift some of that floor in any case, how will you run the cables across the joists otherwise?

Also note, when you cut your 3inch hole, you may be confronted with pipes, cables and noggins that may prevent you from fitting the downlight where you would like it. Sometimes the house chooses.

PS You would be better off not fitting downlights at all. You'll have less effective light and will use ten times more electricity, and it is going up in price.

PPS Downlights on Artex look absolutely awful. The downlight does not sit flat on the ceiling and you'll get a halo effect as the light will 'leak' around the edges. DON'T DO IT!!

 

[utterlydiy]

OK thanks

The bedroom floor above is 8'x4' T&G chipboard and I think thats more of a problem.

The inter-connecting cables between the lamps would be behind the corner coving.

The circular area on the Artex around the lamps would be smoothed off, preventing the halo effect.

The reason for downlamps, would be eliminating working in the shadow of the current central cluster of lamps. Also I would use either energy lamps or low voltage.

As for not using downlight lamps, what other would you suggest lighting the worktop area and not being in a shadow from the above ceiling.

thanks

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[sparkwright]

Tapping the ceiling will give you a rough idea where the joists are.

So will lifting the carpet above and seeing where the nails are.

You can also make tiny holes in the ceiling with a bradawl/blunt screwdriver which can easily be filled.

Use a chalk string-line to ensure the lights are in straight rows, if applicable.

When you have marked where you think the holes should go, make a tiny hole in the centre, to check there is no joist. Then make four holes in the 'corners' of the circle. If still in doubt, push the bradawl in diagonally to check the joist isn't immediately near the edge of the hole.

 

[davelx]

How old is your house?

The reason I ask is that in my 1930's built property, the floor joists are not in one piece front to back - there is an overlap under the internal wall which extends a couple of feet each side.

This means that if you find the edge of a joist near an internal wall where there is an overlap, you can't be sure if that edge/joist continues across the whole room - you may have located the overlapping end of the joist from the other side.

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[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You will also find that your standard ceiling joist are 16 inch apart, so once you have located one, you can measure 16 inch centres to the next.
If you locate the first joist on a perimeter wall, that would be a good starting point then measure from there.