dot and dab or Batten a Wall?

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hello every one.
i renovating my first house, my problem is i striped my kitchen of plaster back to brick. its 1900 semi, big room 8m -2.5m no wall cavity, but not much damp. going to put a chemical damp in agen while its striped.
i had advice already but i confused. some say dot and dab, one say batten.
(dot and dab) cornered about external moisture.
walls are not very level. and there will be wall hung units on 2 of the walls.

that are the pros and cons off both and what would you advise ?
 
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Batten and board. You can insulate the wall too if you want. I'd use 12.5mm foil backed plasterboard.
 
If you're clever about it you could make sure that you have horizontal battens fixed at the precise height of where the brackets to hang those cupboards will be. You might even want to consider not boarding nor plastering behind some of base units - easy to run pipes and cables. :)
 
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If you're clever about it you could make sure that you have horizontal battens fixed at the precise height of where the brackets to hang those cupboards will be. You might even want to consider not boarding nor plastering behind some of base units - easy to run pipes and cables. :)

good idea we look at the plans to see where the brackets will be. ( normal in the top corners) i bin told to day don't do the external wall dot and dab. but the internal one will be fine.
do you agree?
 
I'm not, and never have been a fan of dot and dab, so for me, i would batten and board full stop. There are a lot of pluses doing it that way, whether on an internal or external wal,, you can run cables, pipework, fit noggins for cupboards, radiators etc, the benefits are many. With dot an dab,,, it's cheaper, sure, but i've seen it come loose, if you want to run more cables or pipework, it's difficult,, effloressence can come through the boards where the dots are,, you can't insulate the wall the same, etc etc. This is all just my opinion of the plusses and minuses of both methods, I'm an insulate, batten and board guy in this sort of situation, where it's a single skin wall/structure with no cavity.
 
I'm not, and never have been a fan of dot and dab, so for me, i would batten and board full stop. There are a lot of pluses doing it that way, whether on an internal or external wal,, you can run cables, pipework, fit noggins for cupboards, radiators etc, the benefits are many. With dot an dab,,, it's cheaper, sure, but i've seen it come loose, if you want to run more cables or pipework, it's difficult,, effloressence can come through the boards where the dots are,, you can't insulate the wall the same, etc etc. This is all just my opinion of the plusses and minuses of both methods, I'm an insulate, batten and board guy in this sort of situation, where it's a single skin wall/structure with no cavity.

ok thanks so could you advise me on what size battens to get? i bin thinking off roof battens 1"-1.5" i think because thay are 4 m long and £2.50 each (wikes do one that 22mm by 38mm and 2.4m for £1.50
my ceiling height is 2.7M
for pakers was going to use the ones i got left over from doing my windows.
thanks sam
 
roofing battens should be fine as long as they are regularized,instead of getting it from wickes see what roofing suppliers offer in price.

+1 for battening.bloody hard trying to fit skirtings to dot n dab,especially if its phissed.
 
Personally would use 50mm or deeper batterns to put insulation between.

Also make sure it's talinised wood to avoid rot.

Then put a non permeable membrane on warm side of insulation and attach boards.
 
Personally would use 50mm or deeper batterns to put insulation between.

Also make sure it's talinised wood to avoid rot.

Then put a non permeable membrane on warm side of insulation and attach boards.

the insulation is to expensive for my to install sadly.
and also the thinner the better i don't what to reduce the width of the room any more. but if i could i would.
 
I'm assuming your kitchen has 2 internal & 2 external walls by what you've described.

At 2.7 high, by 8m long & 2.5m wide you've got just over 28sq meters of uninsulated single skin wall. In winter that's going to be cold or more likely you'll be heating it a lot more than you'd need to with a bit of insulation.

To insulate with 50mm board your going to need 10 2.4mx1.2m boards from a reliable eBay seller £200 from a big shed £300

The space argument:
You've mentioned that you're going to use 22mm deep batons meaning you're already loosing 0.231 sq meter of potential floor space so to using 50mm insulation will only use a further 0.294 sq meter. This will not be noticeable.
 
Laminated plasterboard which has insulation fitted onto to it already is ideal in this situation and something which I have done on numerous occasion

Make sure if you do this then to get the correct Dri-wall adhesive to suit these boards

Battening and fitting is long winded especially if you want to get the walls plumb
 
so if i go for insulation ebay 6 boards for £45
i can only really use dot and dab, but i could just use insulation for external wall and use normal board for the internals saves money.
 
You only need to insulate the walls which are external as in facing the elements not any internal walls

Your home heating works as building envelope the idea is to keep the heat in thus why it is important to insulate the loft

Make sure to use the correct adhesive which is compatible with insualted plasterboard and not just any old dry wall adhesive .This is the reason why some people in the past have had boards falling off
 

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