Downstairs radiators don't heat up while upstairs do

[Grizza]

Only had new pump fitted a couple of years ago. I've turned setting up to max 3 which should be plenty. It's a grunphos 15/60. I've rechecked all radiators for trapped air too.
Does one of the valves / taps near the tank affect this or is the pump wearing already ? It does sound a bit louder than it used to.

Untitled

• Grizza
• 11 Jun 2010
• 1

 

[gas_man_gaz]

id guess a restricted/blocked cold feed. could also check its not air-locked and there is water in the f & e tank

 

[Grizza]

Thanks Gaz man. There is water in the header tank ( F&E tank presumably). Not sure how to check for blocked cold feed.

I'm going to turn off all the radiators both sides, and then run the CH and turn them on one by one from the furthest away, to see if that clears any air locks. Can't hurt anyway.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

ya only have to turn um off at 1 side to stop the flow of water... have ya got a strong magnet?

 

[Agile]

Are the downstairs rads fed by pipes coming "from above" ?

Tony

 

[Grizza]

Thanks Gazman. 'Doh....' Yes I've just turned off the one side on all the radiators and turned on downstairs one by one. All seems clear now , and perhaps a bit better balanced as I've turned a few down a bit.

However I've another problem just started ; don't know whether it's associated. - The Potterton PTT2 thermostat near the hot tank is making a really loud buzz if the temp goes 'below' , when neither the HW nor CH are on ?!! Should it even be lit up ? The thermstat doesn't make the noise if the HW is switched on and it's 'below'.


Any ideas please?

 

[Grizza]

Agile - I think so as boiler is high up on wall and pipes going upward.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Is it me, or does the floor look wet by the wiring connection? Why the newspaper? Is there a leak from a joint on the cylinder running down the electrical wiring?

 

[SteNova]

should that twin box with the blank on really be mounted on the floor like that in a water area?? i'd have it mounted up on the wall, and all cables from 'wet' items going up to it

 

[Grizza]

it's more like an oil mark. My wife had loads of spare shampoo bottles, cleaning liquids etc and something probably did leak a bit but not sufficient to cause a problem. I had a look at the box before, but the wiring comes straight up underneath through the floorboard.
Where the potterton ptt2 is situated isn't clever either as the wire to the sensor hangs across.
I've ordered a new one as I'm sure that has faulty/ worn connections.

What's the magnet for please?

 

[Benjibalz]

If the cold feed is blocked it will be a slug of iron oxide. Hence the magnet.

The cold feed is normally the 15mm pipe connected inbetween the 22mm vent and the pump. The vent and cold feed should be no more than 150mm apart.

If you don't have a strong magnet (I don't!) turn the cold mains off and drain off a couple of buckets of water from the heating system. If there is still water in the F&E tank the cold feed is blocked as it is not replenishing the system.

Ben

 

[Agile]

When you look at downstairs rads, do the pipes come up out of the floor?

Or are they coming down from the ceiling?

Tony

 

[Grizza]

Thanks Agile. Was waiting to have a new expansion vessel fitted. The plumber's been waiting 3 weeks now for his supplier, so I've just ordered one yesterday morning via internet, cheaper than he was going to get it too, from Advanced water co, and it's just arrived! He'll fit it tomorrow.
I also fitted a new PTT2 thermostat for hot water as that was faulty with the booster button. Not that these things are connected to poor flow probably.

The pipes come up through floor. I've cleaned out header tank in airing cupboard first and then drained 3 downstairs radiators one by one that were the coolest. The radiators are warming up downstairs now eventually although I have got the 15/60 pump running at setting 3 which must be more than enough. ( 4 bedroom, 9 rad down, 7 up )
So it's probably OK now although I have this nagging doubt that sludge is sitting in pipes below floorboard level. It's never been thoroughly cleaned out in 18 yrs.
Should I be concerned ?

 

[Agile]

The pump should work fine on setting "2".

First try balancing the rads or get your plumber to do so if he can.

If that does not sort it out then add Sentinel X800 and run heating on low for 3-4 hours then drain and if its better flush out once or twice and then when clean add X100 inhibitor.

Tony

 

[MIGEM]

First post on here, after being brought here by a google search for something totally different, and clicking a link....

To me, it looks like your pump is on backwards.
If you look at the arrow on the top, at the rear, it will be pointing from left to right.
Should it not be pointing Right to Left?
The flow then, will be pushed to the 2 port valves and around your system the correct way. If it is wrong, you are likely sucking more air in than letting out, when you bleed your radiators, and your boiler will be overjoyed if it is turned around the correct way.
It will also explain why the decorator painted around the previous pump, because the vent screw on that one, would have been at the top.

That, along with a flush, should cure your problem.

Or..... maybe im looking at your picture wrong.

Can anybody else see that...?