Drilling kitchen carcass holes for shelving

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I have got to add a couple of shelves to a kitchen unit and wondered how you drill the holes (to take the shelf pegs) perfectly straight and to the correct depth.

Any trips/tricks? I have 3mm pegs that are 5mm deep.

Thanks for any help and advice you can give.[/code]
 
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Drilling slightly deeper than needs be isn't an issue.....wrap some masking tape around the drill bit as a guide.
For accuracy, use a smaller drill first, followed by the one that's suitable for the shelf peg.
John :)
 
Just about to embark on the same mission ... and so far best tip I've seen is to use a lip & spur drill bit with a hollowed out dowel cut down to the right length to keep your holes the right depth.

My issue is a sudden worry that using MDF for the sides where the pegs go into won't work well ... the few tests I've done to date have resulted in very 'fluffy' holes that aren't exactly hugely supportive! What material are you working with?
 
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Nope - they're brand new ... when I say fluffy, that is after 5 or 6 times of putting shelf support in & out.

Also think with MDF it might be better to undersize the holes by 1mm or so ... make the fit it a bit more snug
 
if the hole is fluffy or not tight, put a tiny bit of no-more-nails or cheap equivalent into the hole (not on the peg) and smear it round immediately prior to pushing in the peg. It will harden in the hole and hold the peg tight.

Don't fill a blind hole, as there will be nowhere for it to escape when you press the peg in, and it may cause a pimple on the other side.
 
Thanks John ... only if I understand you correctly, that slightly defeats the purpose of the 'adjustable' shelving!

I was thinking maybe the sleeved versions of these shelf supports would be better if using MDF as the vertical carcass ... but only trouble is that a column of these is then a lot more visible than a column of holes ...
 
ah, you want to move them?

if you don't like to see unused pegs sticking out, look at "library strip."

IronmongeryDirect and others have it.

But once you have them up, I doubt you will move the shelves once in 20 years.
 
i use pegs that use 5mm holes slightly loose and off angle not a problem as the shelve locks the peg in place
make a jig with the holes in the correct place
drill a 10-12mm hole at what will be the very front point in the cabinet
draw a pencil line central off the 10mm hole and drill your 5mm holes along that line
then all you have to do is mark the cabinet inside front where you want the pegs and line up the line on the jig
 
Decided to make a mock up and actually the MDF does seem to hold the pegs in fine.

I take it the best finishing sequence is to drill up all the holes first, and then paint. The paint should I guess serve to strengthen the holes even more, and make the pegs sit a little more snug.

Going to use a homemade one-shot jig with a lip that hooks to the front of the bookcase so the holes stay at a consistant depth back ... plus, as discussed before, a hollowed out dowell to ensure the right depth to each hole, although this really isn't that important ...
 
make sure you mark 1mm past the depth stop on the drill bit and check after the first and every few holes for the pencil line
this will let you know easily and quickly if the depth stop is moving
 

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