dual fuel cooker. Elec. oven / gas hob

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10 Sep 2010
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Denbighshire
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United Kingdom
Hi guys. I have bought a new cooker and the instructions are telling me it needs to be at least 13amp fuse. It rating is 230v 50htz 2.6kw. My question is can I connect this coojer the normal way or do i need to put in a fcu and use a plugged lead, all the instruction lead to a plug and socket.? existing 45 amp cooker connection is in place
 
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from your description, it is OK in an ordinary socket. 2.6kW is less than the 3kW limit for a standard UK socket, and will be safe on a 13A fuse. If need be, the cooker outlet can be adapted with a 13A outlet, but this is unlikely to be either necessary or worthwhile. Many other countries lack the wonderful UK 13A plug and the wonderful ring main so it would be more difficult for them to use an ordinary socket for their oven.

A 13A plug and socket is generally not safe for a Double oven, or an electric hob.

I also use gas hob/electric oven, I think they're great. Mine's a Zanussi
 
Does the cooker come with a plug top on the flex?
I would exchange your cooker outlet plate for a single socket outlet, which you could then plug into.
Is this circuit protected by a RCD if not it would be wise to install a RCD protected socket.
 
Thanks for the reply John. So am I right in thinking I can just wire this up the same as usual? Or shall I use a plug and socket. I've just finished all the plastering and tiling. Don't want to rip it off to put another cable and socket in................will if i have to just don't wanna :(
 
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the cooker came with no cable supplied. Typically. can I just replce the cooker connection with a socket? do i need to replace the 4mm cable? Shall i say poo to it and call the electrician and pay him my months salary
:eek: :( :confused:
 
You shouldn't wire a 12A cooker straight into a 45A cooker outlet. You need preferably a plug and socket (the plug will fuse it down)

Haven't you got a spare socket handy in the kitchen?

Electrical work in kitchens is controlled by Building Regulations Part P now, and you are supposed to have it done by a qualified electrician who is a member of a Competent Persons Scheme who will issue a certificate.

My personal preference would be to use a convenient pre-existing socket, or else to have a 13A surface socket connected to the cooker cable outlet in the wall. This could easily be changed back if you or someone else wanted an electric cooker in future. IMO it is also more convenient, and less prone to future error, than hard wiring it e.g. to an FCU with flex connector
 
Thanks guys will change the plate to a socket. I just thank god I don't have t rip my tiles off. You guys are a godsend :D
 
Thanks for your help fellers. Luckily I'd left the bottom tiles off until the slate went down on the floor so was able to just chase the flex through to a vacant socket. :D All GOOOOD! :LOL:
 

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