can any one help my shower kept switching the fuse on my fuse board. I have brought a new shower but it is still tripping the switch. Indicator states that its low pressure before it trips. But when the shower is put on it seems fine but then trips out. I dont want to have a higher fuse put in if it is the water pressure the shower that we have purchased is a 9500 and we have a 40amp fuse. the house was rewired about 4 years ago so the wiring is all fine and the fuse box was replaced at the same time. Can any one give any advise pleaseeeee.
electric shower low pressure
- Thread starter maureenm
- Start date
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its not a shower fault then.
water pressure has nothing todo with the fuse tripping.
what triton,Gainsborough ?
have you tried changing it to a 45 amp ?
I wouldn't expect a 40 amp fuse to trip dues to a max shower load at 9.5kw. Yes the load is over the rated mcb, but a shower doesn't use full load unless the user wants to remove their skin via a burns unit.
A 40 amp mcb has some head room after all.
The low pressure light suggests a water issue, is the water via mains direct or via stored water tank ?
Have you made sure that any water cock or water isolator screw is fully open ?
What happens when you set the shower to max COLD output and turn it on ?
Have you tried measuring your water pressure via a bucket with a home made 10 litre marker, then time the fill time to get 10 litres and then calculate if the water output is within the shower makers allowance ?
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The vast majority of electric heated shower units are not fitted with thermostatic controls unless you buy a top line model
Shower manufacturers still use 240v for their products so the actual calc is
9500 / 240 = 39.6A so the circuit design is fine.
Also anyone working on electrics for payment really should know that a slight overload will not trip a fuse or MCB. Seco, your advice to up the fuse is wrong wrong wrong.
OP: have you checked the isolator switch?
9500 / 240 = 39.6A so the circuit design is fine.
Also anyone working on electrics for payment really should know that a slight overload will not trip a fuse or MCB. Seco, your advice to up the fuse is wrong wrong wrong.
OP: have you checked the isolator switch?
Hmmm, how do you think an electric shower works then?
I'll tell you . . . it pulls constant power all the time. There is no variance in the current supplied to the elements. They pull full load when connected - usually there's two elements for two settings.
The water temperature varies by adjusting the flow of water through the elements. So if you want a really hot shower, you wont get much pressure. A cold shower will give a very hard spray.
Thermostatic showers contain a linkage between a mechanical thermostat on the output pipe, and the pressure valve (which controls the output temp). On Mira showers, the linkage is a rubber belt, which turns the valve, but doesn't affect the dial on the outside of the case. Very clever stuff.
At no point does the current vary to the elements in an electric shower.
Mate, showers have two ratings, one at 240v and one at 230v, I believe because the manufacturers didn't want their products to look more weedy after the change in uk nominal voltage. A 9.5kw shower rating is based on 240v It has another rating based on 230v.
If you don't believe me do a search on here.
Or take a look at page 2 here, for example.
www.taps4less.co.uk/pdf/Triton-T100xr-Installation-Guide.pdf
I am unaware of any electric shower manufacturers who use 230v when marketing their products. All the kw ratings (and therefore current usage) you see are based on 240v.
Obviously the voltage in any given property will not match the nominal UK voltage of 230v but this does not affect how circuits are designed.
If you don't believe me do a search on here.
Or take a look at page 2 here, for example.
www.taps4less.co.uk/pdf/Triton-T100xr-Installation-Guide.pdf
I am unaware of any electric shower manufacturers who use 230v when marketing their products. All the kw ratings (and therefore current usage) you see are based on 240v.
Obviously the voltage in any given property will not match the nominal UK voltage of 230v but this does not affect how circuits are designed.
P
PrinceofDarkness
So, the house was rewired just "four years ago - and the fusebox was replaced at the same time"?
Does it seem likely that such a 'new' installation would still have circuit fuses - or is this just a mix up of terminolgy by the O/P?
Time to call the local electrician, I think....
Lucia.
Does it seem likely that such a 'new' installation would still have circuit fuses - or is this just a mix up of terminolgy by the O/P?
Time to call the local electrician, I think....
Lucia.
To whom are you adressing as your mate?
Sorry buddy 
Resorting to petty insults now because I called you 'mate'?
By the way it was not me who signed up for a new account and posted that, i'm sure a mod would be able to confirm that.
EDIT: post either of those. it's probably that confused guy who was slagging off securespark's safe isolation post
Resorting to petty insults now because I called you 'mate'?
By the way it was not me who signed up for a new account and posted that, i'm sure a mod would be able to confirm that.
EDIT: post either of those. it's probably that confused guy who was slagging off securespark's safe isolation post
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