Electric welders for boby work

Yes, that's correct.
I'll leave it for others to comment on how good this type of welder is though as I don't have one.
John :)
 
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Mine does either type (you have to reverse the polarity which is easy)
Only had the one spool of gasless I ran through. It's more "spattery" and less easy to see the weld.
With the gas is "nicer" but of course you have to have gas. . .
Personally, I'd have look at the Clarke offerings welder wise, you can get spares for them easily.
I'm suspicious of welders that don't actually say they are a "non-live" torch. I've not used one, but apparently the wire is live all the time and it makes them a PIA to use.
 
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No experience of that model, but yes. I'd buy that myself.
 
The gas/no gas mig from UK Home Shopping on Ebay looks a good spec. I've got an old Clarke Pro 90 and while it works I wish I had a bit more amperage
 
I'll bet the t-shirt had lots of burn holes in it! :)
:LOL: good one . In fact the one I still remember was previous to that and with oxy acetelene. a blob of metal went down my boot and cauterized itself into my ankle - I was at a welding bench practicing @ tech.
 
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Sealey are pretty good AFAIK . To weld ali you need T I G and a lot of skill;)

This isn't right - MIG was invented because MMA was inadequate for ali welding. In fact it's very easy welding ali with TIG, given enough twiddles of knobs.. granted welding Ali with MIG doesn't give the same high quality results but there we have it.

Nozzle
 
Argon gas is needed for MIG aluminium welding, and the reason it is so awkward is that it goes pasty before just collapsing into a puddle :eek: Much respect is due to those who can do it!
I find Sealey products to be pretty good overall if a little expensive - and their distribution network isn't too clever. Just my experience though!
John :)
 
Bit of a black art ally welding by any method. As John says it drops into a puddle if you look at it too hard.
I used to have a mate who could gas weld it. He put a patch in a vintage racing car bonnet where a non-standard blower had been fitted, and when it was cleaned up, you couldn't see where the repair was.
I was impressed!
:LOL: good one . In fact the one I still remember was previous to that and with oxy acetelene. a blob of metal went down my boot and cauterized itself into my ankle - I was at a welding bench practicing @ tech.
I always love the way that no matter how you think you have filled all the gaps in the kit you're wearing, a spark will get in somewhere, and bounce all the way down to your boots where it burns you! Always funny to see someone learning as they jump about. Once you've had it happen a couple of times you realise that there's nothing you can do about it!

Back to the OP. The more you spend on a welder, (in general) the greater the power, and the more versatile it will be.
I looked at the cheaper sets to start off with, and ended up paying quite a bit more. That's life though.:)
One definite tip which has nothing to do with the machine, is to get everything as clean as possible and back to bare metal. As I said earlier, get new steel sheet the right thickness for the job. Practice first until you can run a weld. It all makes it much easier to get right.
 
A thought has occurred to me.

I seem to recall, that for the past two decades, car body panels have anodized with zinc as an anti-corrosion measure prior to painting.

Does the zinc impede a mig weld when do repairing work or do you merely grind away surface metal near the weld area ?
 
Any plating has to be removed for the weld to penetrate fully, and the gas produced by vapourising zinc is highly toxic.......I would guess that your body panel was simply mild steel, probably with a sprayed on plasticised coating.
John :)
 
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