Erecting a fence on a slope...

[Kevlar_]

The fence that sits on the slope between us and our neighbour is in a bit of disrepair. It's not of the best quality anyway (timber posts stuck in the soil with spikes and flimsy panels) so I thought I'd have a go at fixing it properly, with slotted concrete posts and some decent panels. I wanted to have the panels and post all end up at the same height (you'll see what I mean).

I've never erected a fence before so I've done a lot of reading up (here and elsewhere) and I've drawn up a plan:



The light grey areas under the panels are concrete gravel boards (which I forgot to label) which, if I buy 6" ones I will need three of on each side.

I thought this looked like a good plan, but I'm not sure now. Can any expert fence-builders see any glaring problems? I might be being paranoid, but it never hurts to ask.

Thank you.

 

[toptec]

What a complicated way to go about this.

Why not close-board it. the top will then follow the lay of the slope, will look much neater and will last a lot longer than panels.

 

[Thermo]

in principle it will work, but i agree with toptecs sentiments. I certainly wouldnt suggest it to a customer!

 

[Kevlar_]

Do you mean doing something like this?

http://www.erectafence.com/users/www.erectafence.com/upload/img058.jpg

 

[toptec]

Much better, but with a rail on top running at the angle you show on the diagram.

I will post a photo of the fence I have just finished with a similar problem.

 

[kevindgas]

kevlar I think the advice above is good as the way you show it in your drawing you will end up with a triangular fence say 5 ft high at start and 20ft high at the other end!!

 

[ColJack]

fencingexpress is not a registered address, yet, so we can only assume that you havent put it up yet and it's your own website advertising your fencing business??

 

[kevindgas]

have something to hide? opted for details to be withheld as well!

 

[Kevlar_]

Much better, but with a rail on top running at the angle you show on the diagram.

I will post a photo of the fence I have just finished with a similar problem.

toptec that would be fab if you could. I am open to any and all suggestions.

Thanks to all for your input.

 

[toptec]

As promised.

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• toptec
• 27 May 2009
• 1

Untitled

• toptec
• 27 May 2009
• 1

Untitled

• toptec
• 27 May 2009
• 1

Untitled

• toptec
• 27 May 2009
• 1

 

[mattylad]

For doing this on a slope, how would you go about it step by step?

How does this sound?

Start with top & bottom posts & then put a taut string between the top & 1 foot from the bottom on them as a height guide & level guide before putting in the rest to match?

Fitting cross battens seems easy enough, but how do you go about getting that staggered look in the boards as per the pic Kevlar linked to?
(I'm sure that there must be some maths involved in this bit?)

 

[toptec]

You can't. That pic shows the boards as alongside each other. Close boarding needs an overlap of each board. Trying to stagger them as per the link with an overlap will look pants.

You could try using the gravel board as a datum but it will mean a awful lot of trimming of the bottom of each board.

 

[mattylad]

Thank you for your comments, how would you suggest doing it then?

 

[toptec]

Presumably your posts will be lower as you go down the slope so drop your gravel boards to match.

Keep your close boards level at the top for each height section. Depending on the steepness of slope you could do say 1.8 m sections which is roughly half a normal rail.

Very much the same as you would do a panel fence on a slope, except the beauty of close board is that you would choose how long each section would be.

Does that make sense? I would draw a diagram but I am carp at them.

 

[mattylad]

Thanks, but sorry I'm not picturing it....

I'd have thought that your posts will all be the same height above ground and that your cross struts will be matching the angle of the slope.

So the gravel boards will also be sloped, unless they are staggered between posts.

It does present the problem of needing the bottom of the boards angled, but if the angle of the dangle is constant then they will all be cut the same.

Nailing the boarding vertically then presents staggered tops because they naturally are lower for each one.
Perhaps run a circular saw along the entire length to trim the top & provide a straight edge?

Although even with an overlap I dont see what's the problem of them staggering in height as long as the stager is even over the whole drop?

BTW, can a wooden gravel board be in contact with the ground?