Euramo 1030 pump blowing the main fuse

[DIYDave2]

I have an Euramo 1030 pump circa 1979. It is blowing the main trip, is not siezed, the windings do not smell burned out and I figure it may be the capacitor that has shorted. It runs for approx 0.5 seconds before tripping. It is rated as light commercial in some reviews, it is a big (12+ room, four storey) house so probably needs it.
Firstly, can they be repaired?
Secondly, I was quoted £245+vat for a replacement.... Surely not!

Thanks in advance.

Dave

 

[Agile]

What kind of main trip is it operating?

An easy test of a pump is to connect it directly to a 13A plug which has been fitted with a 3A fuse !

Regardless you need to replace the pump!

Any with the same physical dimensions can be used ( if the electrical power details are roughly the same ).

Can you post a close up picture of it?

Tony

 

[DIYDave2]

I will attach pics. Hope you can read them etc. I am adverse to replacing the whole pump as I think it is a £5 capacitor which has gone. I have ordered one and it is a simple job to fit it. I could of course be wrong, but it is worth the £5 to find out.

Thanks for any advise.

Euramo 1030

• DIYDave2
• 1 Nov 2011
• 1

Distance between nuts 75mm

Euramo 1030 #2

• DIYDave2
• 1 Nov 2011
• 1

Diameter of threads on coupling 60mm

Euramo 1030#3

• DIYDave2
• 1 Nov 2011
• 1

Top side. 4 position flow options

Euramo 1030#4

• DIYDave2
• 1 Nov 2011
• 1

The rear

 

[Boilerman2]

To be honest it doesn't sound like a Capacitor fault to me, but for a cheap part it would be worth trying it anyway!!

the Price you have been Quoted seems very reasonable for a pump of that size & duty

 

[DIYDave2]

Well... I ordered the capacitor yesterday evening and it was here half an hour ago. Fitted and guess what... It wasnt the capacitor.

Oh well, was worth a go.

Re the price, damn!

 

[Agile]

I was just about to tell you that the capacitor is there solely to produce a phase change to create the rotational effect.

They usually lose capacitance and that reduces the torque.

Your pump is a flange connection. To fit anything else you will need to modify the pipework.

You might get away with a 15-60 ( or more likely two in parallel ) but thats difficult to assess without further details. Interesting the current rating is about the same as a 15-60. Unfortunately I cannot read the pressure graph. What type and rating of boiler?

The simplest solution would be to get a new pump with similar connections.

Or as a cheap get it going then use a 15-60 if you are prepared to modify the pipework.

One way would be to buy two flanges and fit the pump between them so it can be simply bolted onto the existing system side flanges. That would enable a simple swap if you ever decide you need an original size pump or you find one cheap.

Tony

 

[DIYDave2]

Thanks all for your input. As it happens, water can be seen filling the glass viewer in the first pic, something I should have taken note of.

Apparently that means the pump is scrap.

I have been told "A modern equivalent is a Grundfos UPS32-55 with 11/4” unions"

So that is what I will hunt for.

 

[Agile]

It may still be oversized for your system!

 

[DP]

It is rated as light commercial in some reviews, it is a big (12+ room, four storey) house so probably needs it.

Tony, are you suggesting 15/60 Grundfos would be man enough to do the job that light commercial pump has so far been doing?

 

[Agile]

I dont know. Probably not?

But it would be worth at least considering if only he would give us the boiler details.

Condensing boilers only need half the flow rate in most cases compared with old boilers.

I say a 36 kW condensing boiler with a pair of large grundfoss pumps costing £400 each where a 15-60 would have been fine.

Tony

 

[DIYDave2]

OK. The house is a large detached Georgian house. The highest rad is 6 meters above the pump and there are 18 rads in 9 rooms and landings.
I dont know the boiler specs, but it is also circa 1979 and is not condensing. It just does the rads, the hot water is off an aga.

Dont know if this is enough info.

FYI I put the pump in the aga low oven over night to dry it out and packed around the shaft with grease and it is working for now. It gives me a day or two to find a replacement.

 

[Agile]

A 15-60 is normally considered adequate for 30 kW of non condensing power.

Without the boiler data its still difficult but many assume a rad to be on average 1.5 kW each which would make a 15-60 adequate by custom and practice.

Can you gas rate your boiler? See the FAQ for how to do that.

Tony

 

[gaswizzard]

You might get away with a 15-60 ( or more likely two in SERIES )

.

 

[DIYDave2]

It is a CL1S oil burner and has a range of 25Kw/h to 55Kw/h.

Dont know if this helps

Dave

 

[Agile]

Unfortunately the wide range of outputs include what a 15-60 can pump ( say up to 36 kW ) and then 37-55kw which if its being provided needs a larger pump.

Its not easy for you to determine the power the boiler is set to unless you have ( good ! ) service records!

I would approach the problem from two different angles. Measuring the flow and return tempertures at the boiler when its heating up and measuring the output of the rads by comparing their sizes/types with manufacturer's data. You need to know what flow and return temps the manufacturer recommends but 11 C might be a typical value for a non condensing boiler.

As I said many engineers use a rule of thumb of 1.5 kW per rad. Thats usually adequately accurate but not if the majority of the rads are particularly small or large.

Tony