exhaust bandage/ Lambda Sensor

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My wifes Peugeot 106. 2002.

There is a hole size of 5p just where the Lambda Sensor screws into the exhaust, is it ok to wrap exhaust bandage around the pipe not completely covering the Lambda Sensor.

She has been told it's not safe to do this and replace the pipe that would also mean cat convertor as its all one piece.
 
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Wellllll that hole must be plugged somehow or it wont pass the MOT emissions wise.
Would it be possible to drop the pipe and seal the hole up with a bit of MIG welding?
John :)
 
Is it worth the effort as the cat for 106 is listed on eBay around £50?
 
I'm afraid my advance years won't let me do this job so it's to the garage.

garage Quoted £200 for all three exhaust parts, Cat- Mid section - rear box.

Yes they would need replacing as in poor condition.

How does the Lambda sensor fit ? is this screwed into the pipe ?
 
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I'm afraid my advance years won't let me do this job so it's to the garage.

garage Quoted £200 for all three exhaust parts, Cat- Mid section - rear box.

Yes they would need replacing as in poor condition.

How does the Lambda sensor fit ? is this screwed into the pipe ?

Yes
 
Best let the garage remove the lambda sensor(s) as they can be ferociously tight......I have the appropriate split socket to let the wires pass over but more often than enough I end up cutting the wires and using a deep drive socket.
Pattern sensors are around £35 but don't always get you through the MOT I've found, and have had to revert to manufacturers items on occasion.
John :)
 
Thanks John
I was wondering how they removed sensor and screw into new pipe, now I know.
 
The Lambda sensors are tight alright. I've only ever had to do one. I thought it would shear the thread off. It didn't but it needed a real hard heave to shift it. That was on a Saxo.
I obviously don't know the financial position of the OP or how long the car might last, but if he can afford it, and the car has a few years left in it, I'd feel inclined to bite the bullet, get a new exhaust fitted and forget it. If an exhaust is holed in the hottest part, it's likely to be because it's worn thin. Lot of work to take the thing off to weld it, only to repeat in a while.
 
Can you get a little flat plate in the hole, with a 6mm bolt through the center to hold a penny washer in place on the outside. The plate will be slightly longer than the hole diameter, so to catch both sides as you tighten the nut on the bolt. Do a dry run first, holding the threads of the bolt as you tighten the nut. If its not quite gas tight tap the washer to shape on the pipe curve, tightening the nut all the time. If you want to loosen off and apply a smear of exhaust putty, then retighten. The bolt can be cut snug against the nut after you heat the exhaust up and check for tightness.

Hope this makes sense ...............
 
Not going to help the OP but I had my 406 done last week and I was surprised at how good the emissions were:-

CO 0.11 ( 0.20 )

HC 53 ( 200 )

Lambda 0.990 ( 1.030 )


Particularly as the exhaust to manifold joint is blowing noisily on the over run AND there is a hole about 7 mm diameter about 100 mm after the CAT !

Garage guy said the metal would be too thin to consider welding.

I have ordered a cheap and probably non approved new CAT. Not looking forward to fitting it on the joint at the manifold!

Tony
 
Try convincing the garage only to replace the section that's actually broken, or see another garage.

I've had plenty of "poor condition" and aesthetically unpleasant exhausts last years after being condemned by KF and other outfitters. If a genuine exhaust is fitted and the joints are in your favour (i.e. flange joint or socket end on the cat) you'll be able to replace only that section and the others may last years yet.
 
It is much easier to replace the whole exhaust.

Worse on the Peugeots where the CAT and the mid box are all one part on the original but supplied with different parts as after sales repair components with questionable jointing designs.

Tony
 
Had all three parts of exhaust replaced, Cat, mid section and silencer As the mid section and silencer looked well rusty worth doing the lot as it's a Pug 106, 2002, 52,000 miles it's done well.

complete job £ 200
 
I replaced most of the system on my "X" reg Pug 106.

Relatively easy job on a 106 but the 406 is a lot heavier.

Also replaced the rear parts behind the CAT on my 206 which was fairly easy apart from the joint after the CAT which for whatever reason does not fit very exactly and will need some metal and paste adding before the MOT.

But before the MOT I also have to find out why the ABS is not working as it diagnoses before moving off.

Tony
 
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