Extractor fan (60l/s) for kitchen wall

[motorbiking]

I need to install an extractor fan in the wall of my kitchen as my cooker "extractor" does not duct to the outside and just cleans the air. My electrician has laid a cable in the wall which will be switched from the grid light switch. I assume therefore that I just buy a simple on/off unit without timer or humidity sensor? Can anyone recommend one? Prices seem to vary hugely. If I'm honest I'll probably never use it. As an Open window is often more effective.

Is this one ok? It does 65l/s so is compliant with building control for extractors not adjacent to the hob.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADAUE150.html

I assume I need some short ducting and an outside vent/grill to go with it.

Interested in recommendations?

 

[alexjgoldie]

Yes you would need the direct on model.
Depending on the size of your kitchen and how much steam you produce I find that some times its worth investing in a larger model. Although these can cost considerably more.
Yes a short piece of ducting and a grill is needed. A grill with shutters is a good idea, so that when not in use the wind doesn't blow back in the house.

 

[motorbiking]

Its a large open plan space (15M x 10M approx), with huge openable windows and doors including vlux - previously had a hood with 4" ducting to outside, but rarely use it.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Many fans include a back draft shutter. Look at the Icon range. Funky and effective, IMO.

 

[Iggifer]

A grill with shutters is a good idea, so that when not in use the wind doesn't blow back in the house.

Absolutely not the way to go. I never, ever fit flapped grilles. Even a basic £14 Manrose fan has backdraft shutters. The only thing a flapped fan grille does is get caught in the wind and cause a horrible clattering noise the entire time. A plain grille is perfectly fine.

 

[alexjgoldie]

Well it doesn't mention backdraft shutters on the model he is looking at? I have seen alot of fans with no back draft shutters. I have a shuttered grill on my own house and it never flaps about.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is this one ok? It does 65l/s so is compliant with building control for extractors not adjacent to the hob.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADAUE150.html

Read the description. It says it is suitable for kitchens if fitted adjacent to a hob.

 

[motorbiking]

Yes - I don't understand that as further down it says "Kitchen without cooker hood – 60 l/sec (216 m3/hr)" which is the requirement for a fan not located next to the hob.

I was also looking at this fan:
which is a special order
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SLS300CZ.html

or
http://www.screwfix.com/p/vent-axia...an/65224#product_additional_details_container

 

[motorbiking]

I ended up going for the SILENT-300 as it does 77.8l/s so exceeds the requirement. Would I be right in thinking that since the electrician has proved a 1.5mm cable its likely to be connected to a 5A circuit and therefore wont need a fused switch? I guess worse case they could install a fuse on the grid light switch as there are spare block spaces.

http://www.solerpalau.com/media/catalogos/documentation/Ins_SILENT.pdf

There is no mention in the manual that it needs to be fused?

 

[alexjgoldie]

Although I have seen people use a fused spur unit before, this is not required. Most use a local isolation switch, although again I don't believe this is a requirement. A 1.5mm cable is more than adequate to supply a fan.

 

[motorbiking]

Is it typical that these hang off the lighting circuit then?

 

[EFLImpudence]

How do you fit a fan adjacent to [sic] a hob?

1.5mm² is more than adequate; it is larger than needed.

They definitely should not hang off a lighting circuit but may be connected to it.

 

[JohnD]

The fan you link to is rated at 29 Watts.

Remembering that until recently, lightbulbs were most often about 100 Watts, you can see that it is perfectly suitable for a lighting circuit, and that is the usual way to connect them.

Haha, not hanging!

 

[motorbiking]

so I don't need a fan isolation switch and can take the wire provided directly in to the fan leaving the front off for electricians to inspect.

it's really about where I make the hole.

or do I need a double pole fan switch adjacent ?

It would seem sensible to run the 1.5mm in to a double pole switch like this:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p61802?table=no
and then add a new cable in to the hole for the fan

 

[alexjgoldie]

You don't really need one its just handy if you want to isolate for any reason. I always use a fan isolator switch when taking directly off the lighting circuit.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p86770?searchstr=fan isol