Fault On Air Pressure Switch Warning on Heatline boiler.

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by IAmMarwood, 3 Apr 2011.

  1. IAmMarwood

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    Hi all,

    I'm hoping for any advice regarding my currently non-working Heatline Compact S24 boiler, I am aware from reading on here that it's just about the cheapest there is but it was in the house when I bought it so I'm pretty much stuck with it for now!

    Two days ago it stopped working (both hot water and heating) and is now constantly showing the "Fault On Air Pressure Switch" warning light which it has done before in the past but magically it started working again shortly after so I thought nothing more of it, looking back now this was possibly stupid of me not looking into it further at the time!

    After switching it off or resetting it is starts to make all the right noises but then never fires up and then that warning light comes on.

    Anyway, I've been advised by a friend of a friend (I know, ultra reliable eh?) that I need to replace the air pressure switch however I have taken a look and I'm not convinced that this is the problem as I've maybe foolishly tested it and as far as I can see it's working. I've only tested this by putting a meter across it's terminals and gently blowing/sucking it and the switch appears to be working fine, also I'm getting exactly the same warning on the boiler if I bypass the switch altogether and have the wires connected or disconnected.

    That's about as far as I'm prepared or able to go when it comes to heating/boilers and hopefully I've not done anything too wrong and I'd like some advice from someone that knows what they are talking about before I go any further or shell out the £40 on a new air pressure switch for no reason at all.

    Cheers in advance!
     
  2. adlplumbing

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    air perssure switch is inside the combustion chamber so i think you need to call out an engineer to make sure your boiler safe and get the problem
    fixed
     
  3. IAmMarwood

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    Thanks for replying adlplumbing. The air pressure switch is outside of the combustion chamber, if you take the front panel off the boiler it's up at the top, see page 7 on it's diagram here: http://www.heatline.co.uk/assets/boilers/products/manuals/Compact S24 and S30 manual.pdf

    I wouldn't go any further than taking the front panel off as I know it would be dangerous plus I'd be completely out of my depth and even though I'm happy to have a go at most things I know my limits!

    I'm sure I will need to get an engineer out but I'm hoping for some advice first really even if it's to back up or otherwise what I've already been told. I like to have some idea of what's going on with things even if it's only enough to know that I'm not being turned over by some cowboy plumber!
     
  4. adlplumbing

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    no that metal panel you took of is the combustion chamber
     
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  5. IAmMarwood

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    Ahh, so is that whole space behind the panel classed as the combustion chamber even though there is a separate box inside which is where the flames actually clearly fire up when it's working? Not knowing about boilers I would have assumed that the combustion chamber wouldn't have included the bit above that other metal box where the top of the fan and the pressure switch and assorted wires were. I do like to know these things so thanks for advising!

    The front panel I removed has clearly been removed in the past at some point, I guess this is a problem buying a house with things already installed, no history or documents about it at all.

    I'd like to replace the lot at some point, radiators and all but it's not going to happen unless my lottery ticket comes up soon!
     
  6. adlplumbing

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    yep on the panel you removed are spongy material which we call case seals this stops poisonous gas carbon monoxide coming out
     
  7. IAmMarwood

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    Cheers for the info, there is indeed a layer of that sponge but it wasn't stuck down in places which is why I'm sure it's been opened at some point in the past. It does still form a seal when the panel is screwed back on but I guess an engineer would apply a new strip of it when the problem is fixed?

    My next job is to find a trustworthy plumber/engineer quickly, there's only so long I can go without heating I'm just glad the weather has warmed up a bit!
     
  8. Agile

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    Whilst you should not have opened the combustion chamber, if you had really measured the contact resistance of the switch then it may be a PCB fault.

    But there are several parts involved in boilers and the PCB is expensive so its better to diagnose the fault properly first.

    Its quite likely that instead of measuring the APS properly you only measured on a high range that was not suitable for measuring contact resistance.

    Tony
     
  9. legbeforewicket

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    I'm having the same problem.

    How did you eventually get this fixed? What was the cost?
     

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