fencing

[mk2phil]

I've been told that when concreting timber fence posts into the ground you need to use hardcore. Where can I get hardcore from as I dont have any old bricks lying about (at least nowhere near enough to do the whole job).

 

[masona]

Only if the hole is too big! Use 3/4" Ballast & cement. Put down some pea shingles & rest the wooden post on to it then concrete it in. The pea shingles allow rainwater drain off from the post.

 

[Thermo]

have to disagree (sorry masona!). I always use some hardcore at the bottom of the hole to wedge the post firmly in place before you put the postmix in. It gives a much firmer post and its easier to work with when putting the panels up.

If you really cant find any hardcore from any neighbours etc then pop to a builders merchants and either ask them for some broken paving/bricks or buy a few commons (cheap bricks) and smash them up.

 

[masona]

Doh! I think I may have read that wrong thinking putting hardcore mixes in with concrete.

Must change my pills

 

[mk2phil]

Thanks for the replies guys. I had originally thought of using pea shingle but someone told me that this will allow the post to move over time.

Can someone confirm whether I should be using either pea shingle or hardcore?

Also, would you recommend using the common 'postfix' bags of cement - I know this is what they're made for but would I be better off making my own mix? I'd rather using the ready-mixed stuff as I dont have any cement mixing experience ( I'm using timber posts if that makes any difference. )

 

[JohnD]

Timber posts

I hate the way they rot away after a few years leaving you with a great useless lump of concrete in the ground.

 

[mk2phil]

Surely if they're well treated to start with, and receive regular treatment thereafter, and have good drainage at the bottom (i.e pea shingle..?) thet should last a relatively long time? I'm not expecting them to match concrete posts but a few years is a concern.

 

[JohnD]

They will rot off at about ground level, where unlimited water from the bottom meets unlimited air from the top, and there is an ideal level of dampness for decay. You won't be regularly treating it below the ground and you can't stop damp getting in. The amount of time and effort you spend putting them in new, and the much greater time and effort taking them out or rebuilding round them when they rot off, will make you wish you had gone for concrete in the first place.

If you don't like the look of concrete, you can paint it with dark brown masonry paint to make it blend in with the fence; or use concrete spurs and bolt wooden posts to them (not touching the ground).

 

[Thermo]

Can someone confirm whether I should be using either pea shingle or hardcore

for the second time hardcore!

use post fix, its neater and easy to use, and gives a good fixing providing its done properly.

Concrete posts versus timber posts...each to their own i say, both can look good in different circs and in the wrong atmosphere ie coastal, timber can outlast concrete, which can spall and crack as the rebar goes in the salt air

 

[mk2phil]

Unfortunately I've already bought the wooden posts (the reeded type which cost me about £10 each) so I'd like to use them if possible - and I really dont like the look of the concrete posts. The panels I'm using are the 'continental' type panels so they'd look awful with concrete posts anyway.

Can anyone kindly give a list of things to do that will give me the most life out of the wooden posts. Could I expect them to last me about 10 years or so, or are we talking 2 years here?

Also, the posts are 95mmx95mm - how much bigger should the hole be than the post? I was thinking to dig a hole thats perhaps 145mm square.

thanks again

 

[JohnD]

Cuprinol Green is the best wood preserver I know. The buried ends of the posts, plus six inches above ground level, should be soaked in a bucket of it for 24 hours, and the rest should be given three flowing brush coats.

 

[breezer]

If you don't like the look of concrete, you can paint it with dark brown masonry paint to make it blend in with the fence; .

I did and it does (differnt colour though)

 

[Thermo]

Certainly no wider than a spades width, if you havnt got any proper fencing spades etc. Make it slightly wider at the bottom as well to give a good solid fixing.

a proper pressure treated fence post should see out 8-10 years

 

[masona]

I really dont like the look of the concrete posts.

There is a way round it which is not difficult to do. In my garden I have used the concrete posts and covered the post with forest pine timber like a box section to match the fence panel meaning I should never have to worry about the post being rotted away.