Ferroli he31c no hot water and c/h not turning off

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21 Oct 2009
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Manchester
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Hi guys, I'm wondering if you could shed some light. I have a Ferroli HE31C and recently the C/H is on constantly with the stat turned completely down and the boiler temp turned down on the boiler control. Also I have no hot water at all though the boiler is lit, even with the temp controls up.
I had a problem with a sticking relay about 6 months ago which caused nothing to work which was brought to my attention by you guys. So here I am again.
Any helpwould be much appreciated.

Cheers
Steve
 
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Sorted the problem with girlfriends boiler. Accessed the PCB and gave a sharp tap to the relays which sorted out boiler not switching off. As for the 'no hot water', that was the divertor valve had stuck, just lowered the PCB panel to expose the valve and to the right of the valve (depending on the type of valve you have I suppose) theres a plastic stem protruding about 1 1/2" - turned it manually through 90 degrees and back again and hey presto, problem solved. I realise eventually I'll have to get a new board etc but for now all's working just fine :D
 
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Sorted the problem with girlfriends boiler. Accessed the PCB and gave a sharp tap to the relays which sorted out boiler not switching off. As for the 'no hot water', that was the divertor valve had stuck, just lowered the PCB panel to expose the valve and to the right of the valve (depending on the type of valve you have I suppose) theres a plastic stem protruding about 1 1/2" - turned it manually through 90 degrees and back again and hey presto, problem solved. I realise eventually I'll have to get a new board etc but for now all's working just fine :D


I came to this thread as we are intermittently seeing no hot water. For a while there has been some knocking through the pipework when the boiler is 'sorting itself out' after a power on, for example. A heating engineer diagnosed the knocking as the boiler being 'on it's way out'...Ferroli..yes I know.
Anyway I powered up today and found the noise was caused by the diverter valve motor, as it was a loose fit on the diverter valve. It is a push fit and secured by 4 small lugs. Slight adjustment of the lugs made it a tight fit and operation is now nearly silent. I am optimistic the diverter valve will now function correctly...So to my question....
In the quote above, the OP turned and put back the stem on the right of the diverter valve. I presume this is the automatic by-pass. Am I correct ? Is it adjustable ? Photo attached.


andytw
 
hi andy had alook around the searchs on the combustion chamber but no real joy about the right hand side of the diverter.just about changing the diverter (as you will do in the future at some time,) not cheap either.last one i bought £125 retail at city plumbing 6 months ago so if you are prepared to use ebay keep your eyes peeled for a new one
never heard about turning that device on the right of the diverter so i suggest ringimg ferolli techline 0843 479 0479and check with them
i recall something about it on a training day but i think its a temporary fix
a guy in the cc who used to be an agent said hes changed loads as the diverter is such a poor quality item
 

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