I have two room made into one and want to fit a wood burning stove, the problem is the fireplace were i want to fit it has very poor draw, i think because the fire place at the other end of the room takes all the air from the room. does anyone know how i can get around this problem ?
fitting a wood burning stove
- Thread starter woody64
- Start date
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I have read that some people have fans installed which help with poor chimney draw - on a downside these can make a slight bit of noise.
Also lining the chimney should help (I think) as the flue/chimney will heat up quicker & I think a warm chimney will disperse smoke quicker. Some have mentioned that getting the chimney lined can total around £1000
I did find this info which someone had posted on a forum.
Assuming that the chimney is being used for a standard fireplace, I'd recommend buying a "certified" fireplace insert. They use smaller chimney pipes (mine uses6") to work properly. You'll get big bonuses on heat to the house. Instead of sucking most of your house heat up the chimney, they will actually heat the house. With a big glass door, you still get the fireplace ambience.
The only problem with mine is that the fan needed to get the most heat from it is pretty noisy.
My insert has a continuous metal liner fitted to the stove top to the top of the chimney, which is really nice for cleaning. All the debris ends up inside the stove, and you don't need to remove the stove from the fireplace to clean the chimney.
I used to have a year-round creosote smell in my house from the fireplace because it would backdraft frequently. By sealing around the stove well when I installed it, that has gone away.
Here is a link about chimney related stuff.
http://www.thechimneysweep.ca/2stackeffect.html
Has the chimney been swept recently as an unclean chimney or one with blockages would contribute to poor draw.
I don't know much about this stuff at all but hopefully someone else will help out.
Also lining the chimney should help (I think) as the flue/chimney will heat up quicker & I think a warm chimney will disperse smoke quicker. Some have mentioned that getting the chimney lined can total around £1000
I did find this info which someone had posted on a forum.
Assuming that the chimney is being used for a standard fireplace, I'd recommend buying a "certified" fireplace insert. They use smaller chimney pipes (mine uses6") to work properly. You'll get big bonuses on heat to the house. Instead of sucking most of your house heat up the chimney, they will actually heat the house. With a big glass door, you still get the fireplace ambience.
The only problem with mine is that the fan needed to get the most heat from it is pretty noisy.
My insert has a continuous metal liner fitted to the stove top to the top of the chimney, which is really nice for cleaning. All the debris ends up inside the stove, and you don't need to remove the stove from the fireplace to clean the chimney.
I used to have a year-round creosote smell in my house from the fireplace because it would backdraft frequently. By sealing around the stove well when I installed it, that has gone away.
Here is a link about chimney related stuff.
http://www.thechimneysweep.ca/2stackeffect.html
Has the chimney been swept recently as an unclean chimney or one with blockages would contribute to poor draw.
I don't know much about this stuff at all but hopefully someone else will help out.
You might like to read this thread & the associated links; most of it will be relevant but some may not be; //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=250732
The biggest single factor is that it’s controlled building work.
The biggest single factor is that it’s controlled building work.
Just picked up on this topic so hope I can dive in without hijacking as we are doing a similar exercise at the moment.
Daughter is having a solid fuel insert type fire fitted.
Work is being don by SIL with a little help from me.
A building notice has been submitted and the 1st inspection is due today, snow permitting.
The old bricked up opening was opened back up giving approx 1"clearance at each side and 1/2" on depth. (this was simply the clearance we had when the opening was taken back to original)
Chimney was swept twice and a new 6" liner fitted.
Opening was approx 4" too high so when the flue was connected and cemented in the whole inset was lifted and lowered back down onto a engineered brick on edge base installed under it. IE it is a snug fit and on a level base.
The question I have is regarding the clearance to the sides as when the fasia plate is installed there is a slight gape in a couple of places due to the side clearance. Is it normal to stuff the side gap or fill with some sort of fire resitant foam to enable it to be plastered a little closer???
I know we can ask the BI later but I find it helps to appear as knowledgeble as possible
Anyone??
Oh, just to add we did smoke test the old chimney and it was ok and we also intend to fit a vent as it is an over 5kw unit
Daughter is having a solid fuel insert type fire fitted.
Work is being don by SIL with a little help from me.
A building notice has been submitted and the 1st inspection is due today, snow permitting.
The old bricked up opening was opened back up giving approx 1"clearance at each side and 1/2" on depth. (this was simply the clearance we had when the opening was taken back to original)
Chimney was swept twice and a new 6" liner fitted.
Opening was approx 4" too high so when the flue was connected and cemented in the whole inset was lifted and lowered back down onto a engineered brick on edge base installed under it. IE it is a snug fit and on a level base.
The question I have is regarding the clearance to the sides as when the fasia plate is installed there is a slight gape in a couple of places due to the side clearance. Is it normal to stuff the side gap or fill with some sort of fire resitant foam to enable it to be plastered a little closer???
I know we can ask the BI later but I find it helps to appear as knowledgeble as possible
Anyone??
Oh, just to add we did smoke test the old chimney and it was ok and we also intend to fit a vent as it is an over 5kw unit
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Well just this once then
; but if you’ve got other questions later, start your own thread or we won’t know who’s asking what! What fire do you have? With insets the maximum width/height is usually specified so the flange butts against the wall face with a decorative surround trim. Insulation is usually used to pack out between the fire casing & the opening.
DONT use Gypsum base/finish plaster or boards around the fire, it won’t last; read ALL of the sub links on the link I posted previously.
BI may want you to repeat the smoke test to witness.
No worries
Side voids do not contravene installation details, gaps filled with rockwell as per suppliers advice, vermiculite to be "fed" around liner before fitting cowl.
Just to add the BI attended. Previously he said on the phone, "we don't do many of these and don't have a lot of information, (and that is a quote)
He agreed to do a 2 part inspection, ist today and then a final witnessed smoke test on completion as you suggested.
We photoed the opening, the base and the fire cementing of the internal fire parts and the liner and adaptor fitting.
He really didn't have a clue, call me back when finished was his only comment, guess it really must be fairly new to them
Side voids do not contravene installation details, gaps filled with rockwell as per suppliers advice, vermiculite to be "fed" around liner before fitting cowl.
Just to add the BI attended. Previously he said on the phone, "we don't do many of these and don't have a lot of information, (and that is a quote)
He agreed to do a 2 part inspection, ist today and then a final witnessed smoke test on completion as you suggested.
We photoed the opening, the base and the fire cementing of the internal fire parts and the liner and adaptor fitting.
He really didn't have a clue, call me back when finished was his only comment, guess it really must be fairly new to them
Vermiculite is OK above the register plate but tends to fall out if you try & pack it around the fire cassette.
God help us if that’s what the uninformed are relying onJust to add the BI attended. Previously he said on the phone, "we don't do many of these and don't have a lot of information, (and that is a quote)
Well at least he redeemed himself somewhat there.
Again, God help us allWe photoed the opening, the base and the fire cementing of the internal fire parts and the liner and adaptor fitting. He really didn't have a clue, call me back when finished was his only comment, guess it really must be fairly new to them
; perhaps I could get a job as a BI [quote="Richard C";p="1825069 [/quote]
Again, God help us all ; perhaps I could get a job as a BI [/quote]
Good income, cost £150 for doing that
Again, God help us all
; perhaps I could get a job as a BI [/quote]Good income, cost £150 for doing that
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