fitting new syncro switch on honeywell 2 port valve

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by beermontypython, 28 Mar 2012.

  1. beermontypython

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    After reading these forums I have bought a new syncro switch, but am a little confused as to fitting it.
    There are 2 orange wires coming out of the new switch with spade terminals.There are also 2 plastic terminal covers.
    Looking at the old one It has another wire connected to each of the syncro wires terminated into a plastic terminal cover.
    Do I have to cut the old wires off the old syncro, if I have to do that how do i connect it then to the new syncro orange wires spade terminals..
     
  2. Cpplumber

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    Hi,

    Doesn't matter which wire to which wire!

    Just cut them and join them. The plastic caps are crimps.cjust pop the wires into the cap and crimp shut, preferably with a crimp tool.

    Good luck
    Carl
     
  3. Cpplumber

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    If you weren't supplied with the plastic cap type crimps you can use normal crimps.
     
  4. Boilerman2

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    And try not to loose the tiny screw that secures the motor to the valve body, if dropped it ALWAYS dissapears down a crack in the floorboards!! ;)
     
  5. beermontypython

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    That sounds brilliant,,do I need to cut off the spade from the new syn wires.and just twist the 2 together then crimp.
     
  6. Boilerman2

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    that is correct - make very sure that you have isolated the electrical supply and confirmed it is dead using a meter! ;)
     
  7. misterdubya

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    And just to add, (if you have a honeywell valve with a 'bump' on the cover) you will have 1 screw. If not, you will have 2.

    Mr. W.
     
  8. Gasop

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    :( :( TWO screws :?: I only got one this month (or was it this year??)
    ahh, well, :evil:
     
  9. beermontypython

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    Well what can I say other than a big thank you..I am 67 years of age and the thought of having to call an engineer out frightens me. I realise it has taken years of training to become skilled and they are entitled to a decent living but the call out costs are scarey before you even start talking about parts and labour. So I will tackle the job tomorrow and hopefully it will sort out the problem of my boiler firing up randomly even with the programmer off.. I will let you all know. MANY MANY THANKS
     
  10. Agile

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    I am not convinced that you have correctly identified the problem.

    However, you will find out when you change the motor.

    Tony
     
  11. FiremanT

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    . So I will tackle the job tomorrow and hopefully it will sort out the problem of my boiler firing up randomly even with the programmer off.. I will let you all know. MANY MANY THANKS[/quote]

    Oh. dear.
     
  12. beermontypython

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    One thing I didn't mention is the sync switch is a Drayton from Screwfix,, will this be suitable,,,thanks
     
  13. beermontypython

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    Oh. dear.[/quote]

    Well up until reading your post I fealt hopefull but now "oh dear" makes me wonder if I should try to fix it...
     
  14. beermontypython

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    Well gents,,I have fitted the new sync switch, straight forward enough and all crimped up but it hasn't resolved the problem.
    Whilst I had the sync switch out I had a look at the valve itself just to see if it had gotten sloppy but it seems ok although when I open the valve manually with the slide, it seems to work ok other than it doesn' go all the way back,is that normal, it stops short about 6mm and I wonder could the problem be that the valve is not closing properly allowing water through and when we pull hot water off it's just topping up.
    As I said previously the boiler fires up even when the programs are turned off, and it only fires up for a short time.
     
  15. beermontypython

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    Any more suggestions on this one please
     

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