Free photographic software and how to use!

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I am a member of a Photographic club but the problem is all the advanced members use expensive software so are unable to help beginners using the free stuff.

Although most things can be done with free software it is the how which has caused the problem.

The first thing you hear in any club is "I always shoot in RAW" and the question then is why. So we get the beginner to shoot in RAW to get the full 12 bits of information but then how does he squeeze that into 8 bits?

The main point is to reduce high lights and to increase the dark areas before it is converted and with expensive software we have graduated filters and adjustment brushes but these are not included with free programs like RawTherapee so we need to use layers and masks.

However although Gimp is similar to Photoshop in many ways it's not the same and I found it hard to find how to do things. So step one is this combining selecting best of both.

Gimp will not handle RAW images so first bit is in the camera, and we produce two Jpeg images one +2 EV and one -2 EV then these are loaded into Gimp, but not “Open” but “Open as Layers” this will then give us two layers. With lighter layer on the top add a layer mask selecting “Greyscale copy of layer” and tick “Invert mask” this will merge the two images together grabbing the whole range of the two exposures. As with all true HDR (rather than tone mapping) the picture will become rather wishy washy and likely one will want to adjust the Opacity to get the effect wanted.

It was so easy once I found out how but internet search found nothing it was a lot of experiments before I found it.

Still not out of the woods wants to save as xcf or png file but I want to save as Jpeg any ideas?
 
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I'm not going to make presumptions why you're not getting help from the local camera club. I have my own thoughts on that, but they shall remain private for the time being. All I would say is that perhaps you and they are looking to do things in a different way. Maybe it's time for you to look at other avenues?

I know for a fact I have suggested this is the past; and yet here we are, again. The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result. Maybe it's time now for you to try something different.

The following is from just the first page of a Google search. It hasn't even scratched the surface. The internet really is bursting to overflowing with dedicated Photography forums falling over themselves to help novice photographers. The fact that those are specialist sites to do with all things photographic really does mean they're better placed to help you.


Free Photo Edit Software suggestions:

Best Free High Dynamic Range (HDR) Software

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/thread.jspa?threadID=1827307

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/50372033

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=51523


Photography Beginner's Forum Sites

http://photo.net/beginner-photography-questions-forum/00bVIo

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/1002?utm_campaign=internal-link&utm_source=mainmenu&utm_medium=text&ref=mainmenu

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/graphics-programs-photo-gallery/203390-photo-editing-software-beginner.html

http://www.photographytalk.com/forum/beginner-photography-forum

http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-pentax-beginners-corner-q/78914-photo-editing-software.html

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/best-photo-editing-software-for-beginner.457574/

http://www.proudphotography.com/forum/
 
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When I was in advertising the pro's only ever used tiff files , jpegs were far too poor quality.
 
I would agree Jpeg is not the best but I also question use of tiff. The original RAW file from my camera is 10M or 16M according to which used and either 12 bit or 14 bit with a digital negative (DNG) these are both converted to 12 bit so no loss with Pentax and a little loss with Nikon but still are around the same size as original RAW file with very little loss. Converting to 16 bit Tiff however will increase file size to around the 60M some time even more so it would be as last resort that I converted to 16 bit Tiff.

When doing HDR I will often arrive at some point with a 32 bit Tiff around 250M this is never printed from this file it is reduced to 8 bit before printing using all sorts of methods to compact the information from S curves to multi images and layers and masks before the printer can handle it some use local tone mapping to reduce the dynamic range to what can be shown with monitor and printer.

I have seen pictures printed like wall paper to fill a wall but this is rather specialist work maybe those special printers can handle 16 bit tiff files. Post Script was the standard for printers but today PDF seems to have replaced that format.

So I store as the original RAW file and I think most do the same. Some do convert to DNG but since DNG is 12 bit and Nikon RAW is 14 bit I think saving as original RAW is best option.
 

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