Fuse box keeps tripping

[ryetee]

I have a relatively new fuse box that has a switch on it that keeps tripping when the washing machine is put on. This didn't happen 2 days ago.
The switch that is tripping has
"RCD Protected. Total load not to exceed rated current".
I've tried switching loads of things off but it's still happening. I've even switched of the shower fuse to see if that helps but it doesn't.
Any ideas other than call a man that knows.

 

[Spark123]

Probably a fault with the washing machine.

 

[JohnD]

You have an earth leakage problem. These are most common with watery appliances such as kettles, immersion heaters, washing machines and outdoor lamps.

It might just be that the washing machine is in a damp place, but it could be that the insulation of the heating element is breaking down, or it could be carbon dust in the motor. It might be water dripping or squirting out of a leak onto some electrical part. Look out for the point in the washing cycle where it happens, for a clue. Consider the age and value of the machine, if is worth repairing or replacing.

If you have several computers plugged in, try unplugging them. Also turn off the immersion heater, boiler and any electric heaters. That will slightly reduce the earth leakage in the house, it is just possible that the washer alone may be slightly under the tripping point.

 

[ryetee]

Thanks for the replies.

IT worked fine a few days ago but is tripping all the time now. Can't see any visible leaks of water and don't have anything else running either. Got a combi boiler so no immersion heater.

Is there anything I can do to determine if it is the washing machine? Is it easy to see if the insulation on the heating element is breaking down or carbon dust is in the motor?

The washing machine looks old (I inherited it when I bought the property) but not ancient.

Happy to buy another machine if needed but want to make sure it's that that is causing the problem.

 

[JohnW2]

Is there anything I can do to determine if it is the washing machine?

Given what you've told us, the circumstantial evidence seems compelling, and it's hard to see what else could be causing the problem.

Is it easy to see if the insulation on the heating element is breaking down or carbon dust is in the motor?

Unfortunately, not really - it would need to be tested by an electrician to ascertain that.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ryetee]

Btw the machine trips on the initial filling up stage after 10-20 seconds

 

[JohnW2]

Btw the machine trips on the initial filling up stage after 10-20 seconds

That could be when either the motor and/or the heating element is first powered-up, so it doesn't really help to distinguish between those two possible causes.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnD]

you could take the top off and look for signs of water leakage.

 

[ericmark]

One can test the machine either with stand alone meters or a PAT tester but without those meters it would be hard to be sure the machine is faulty.

Likely it is the machine but a washing machine draws a lot of current so a neutral - earth fault on something else even if not switched on but just left plugged in like a toaster could cause the trip to open when washing machine is used even when washer is not at fault.

Fault on element tends to be big when it happens and a simple multi-meter can find the fault. But it does mean pulling the washing machine out to test.

Carbon from brushed can be removed with vacuum cleaner and pulling machine out will likely dislodge it anyway.

Leaks are easy to see once pulled out.

Since I can test the cost of testing has not been an issue so no idea of how much testing will cost. I made a mistake getting one repaired did it as new machines don't have hot fill but it went wrong again soon after.

The modern machine squirts water inside the drum and uses technology unheard 10 years ago and so it takes less time to wash cloths to same standard as older machines. Although the old twin tub was good and not sure even the modern machines work as well but they were hard work.

When I came to decide on if to repair or replace my freezer I looked at the price of likely parts required. In my case the motor at £175 and assume a £25 an hour at 2 hours labour so add £50 at £225 I could buy new freezer so that was way I went.

If you allow £20 for element and £50 labour then does it make sense to repair or is it better to put that £70 towards a new one?

If in a hard water area likely worth repair likely 3 elements in the life of the machine. Soft water area then if element is gone likely throwing good money after bad.

 

[ryetee]

again thanks to all that have replied.

funnily enough ericmark we inherited a toaster yesterday which is plugged in. it's a huge old complicated looking thing from a great aunt. i'll unplug that when i get back and see if that works otherwise looks like a new machine!

incidentally is it easy to test appliances for earth faults and are some more prone than others - i guess toasters are a main culprit?

 

[ryetee]

my wife has removed toaster and still cutting out!

 

[JohnW2]

funnily enough ericmark we inherited a toaster yesterday which is plugged in. it's a huge old complicated looking thing from a great aunt. i'll unplug that when i get back and see if that works otherwise looks like a new machine!

It's certainly worth a try, because the mechanism mentioned by ericrmark is a theoretical possibility. However, if the toaster itself does not trip the RCD, I very much doubt that it's resulting in the trips with the WM.

incidentally is it easy to test appliances for earth faults and are some more prone than others - i guess toasters are a main culprit?

You really need proper test kit. A multimeter may give you some indication but will miss some faults. Toasters are quite common culprits - crumbs get burned, turning into carbon which conducts electricity, and then cause problems. Anything involving electricity and water (kettles, washing machines, dishwashers, immersion heaters, outside lights/sockets etc.) are the other common culprits.

Kind Regards, John,

 

[plugwash]

incidentally is it easy to test appliances for earth faults and are some more prone than others - i guess toasters are a main culprit?

It depends on the fault. Some will be found with a multimeter. More will be found with a 500V IR test. Still more will be found with high voltage testing (but that isn't usually done in service because it is considered to do more harm than good).

But if the fault is intermittent it can be a nightmare to find. A few millimeters of movement or a drop of condensation can easilly be the difference between something that will withstand kilovolts and something that will conduct sufficient current at 240V to trip a RCD.

 

[ryetee]

Turned out to be an ill fitting hose leaking and shorting the motor after we'd had a new kitchen installed!!

Thanks for all the suggestions anyway I've learned a bit!

 

[securespark]

How long has that hose been in place?