Gap on UPVC window

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Hello all. First time posting here - been nipping on and off over the past few months for a few tips and learnt a few things from others on here.

Just bought a house with my partner. Built in 1947, it's mostly solid 9" brick with a few areas where I've added insulation. Slowly getting there and making the house warmer (whilst keeping good ventilation), however I'm stumped with a problem we have with one UPVC window on the front bay.

They are side hung, friction-hinged windows at around 10-12 years old. The issue I'm having with one window is a large gap (~6-7mm) between the window frame seal and the window itself mainly in the top-right hand corner and down the right hand side (not the handle side).

I've attached some pictures that I hope will help point out or eliminate any obvious issues. Observations: All mechanisms are smooth and the plastic triangle pieces home into the plastic grooves well. I have noticed what seems to be a small amount of play upwards and downwards on the window's top hinge. All screws are tight but it does seem to move up and down - perhaps the hinge has started to buckle under weight?

Appreciate any help anybody may be able to give. Thank you!
 

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Worn hinges without a doubt, check the 'plastic triangle' pieces, especially the one on the opener, they have a tendency to bend, although both halves appear to mesh properly they don't give you the compression you need, if the windows are downstairs try thumping the corners in while the Mrs closes the window shut, another tip is it smear the triangle with vaseline, see if it helps

Any up and down movement is normal, just the weight of the sash weighing down on the hinge when it's open
 
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At a 6mm or so gap my 1st thought would be knackard hinges but they look fairly clean and possibly have been replaced recently (maybe with the wrong type?)
Does the window close in tight if you close it from the outside while pushing against that side of the window?

Check the other windows to see if the hinges are all the same type/make. If they are then it probably is just the hinge.

Never hurts to clean all your hinges and put a little dollop of Vaseline in the corner taps too!
 
Thanks for the replies, all. I half-guessed it may be the hinges but just wanted a few other opinions to help back up or prove wrong my hunch. There is certainly a lack of compression as when I pull the window in and operate the handle to close it, it's not being 'pulled in' on the areas seen in the pictures. I can go outside afterwards and push the window in, but doing this doesn't provide the same level of compression as a working window should offer and I can still feel a draught.

In answer to a few queries I've posted my answers below:

- Windows are downstairs yes, so I'll apply force to the window as the other half closes it. I'll also try smearing the triangles with Vaseline to see if it offers a little more lubrication to the mechanisms..
- The window does not close in tight, but I will try the tip of closing from outside too.
- If all of this fails, I'll look to replacing the hinges. It helps the windows are downstairs!

Thanks for all the advice (and correct name for my term - "plastic triangle pieces"!) I will let you know how I get on over the weekend as I've booked a few days off to sort some of these niggly issues before the bigger jobs are tackled.
 
Hi all - went out and bought some side-hung hinges. They matched the original ones as per measurements. 611mm long (12"). I have come to fit them today but on taking the old hinges off I notice that the metal strip which fits to the window itself is too short. Because of this, all but one of the drilled holes on the window matches up with the metal piece. I've tried to drill a new hole to match the holes on the strip but there is metal beneath the uPVC plastic and I stopped there. Because of this, the new hinges are now back in the packet and not fitted.

Can anybody recommend a solution? Really frustrating as we're back to square one with a window that lets a stream of cold air in!
 

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The holes pretty much never match.
Before you remove the old hinges you need to place the new one along side so they both overhang the sash to the same distance, Then pencil mark where the it comes to on the sash. It is likely that you will have to put it all together hang the sash try it and then take it out and adjust it a bit. So I would just do the 2 elongated holes until you have it all set up right.
Its a bit of a knack getting it right the 1st time.

You will need to pilot drill the metal either a 3.2mm or 3.5mm hole depending on the screws.

Also check the new hinges in the frame and mark the fixing hole positions if they are different, Much easier to pilot them now than when you are tying to fit the sash.
 
The only hole that might line up is the one I've circled, ignore the rest and make new holes.

Now put your old hinges back on the sash and offer up side by side the new hinge, the absolute only critical thing you need to do is make sure the new hinge over hangs the same amount where my straight line is, forget the screw holes or the overall length, the only part is making sure the over hang is the same. For instance if you give too much over hang the sash will foul the frame on the handle side, not enough over hang will result in the mushroom cams on the lock not wanting to slide into the locking keeps on the frame.

Once you've done about a 1000 of these you can do them by eye
Screenshot_2017-01-15-14-25-48.jpg
 
Just wanted to say thanks to all for the advice above. I've managed to fit the new hinges and the window now shuts nice and snug when the handle is pulled down to close (no gap). Fortunately the first hole was in exactly the same place on both the old and new hinges meaning the overhang was the same amount - I just needed to measure and drill new holes after that point which is where I needed a few tips and a confidence boost to actually do it.

I did have to alter the mushroom cam very slightly with a hex key but once that was right, there was no catching on the frame or window. I also re-used the original self-tappers drilling a 3.5mm hole.

Thanks again; definitely an achievable job if done carefully.
 

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