Greetings, 2.5mm cable up the cavity

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Hi again all, thanks for all the recent help. I have all the necessary equipment, I think for running a spur off a double bedroom socket, up to the loft for a feed for tv aerial amplifier. My question is, regarding the 2.5mm T&G can I just feed this down the gavity to the socket or is this a no NO? I have checked the wall with stud tester, or should I channel out and put a metal plate over the T&G or can I get an internal type conduit etc. Many Thanks in adavnce...AGAIN
 
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Greetings Coljack, thanks for the quick response, what would be the solution in this case, to get the cable up to the loft from room below?

Thanks again
 
T&G is Tongue and Groove.. floorbords and the like..
T+E is Twin and Earth.. flat electrical cable... :D ;)

you say cavity but also mention a stud finder.. do you mean the cavity between the inner and outer walls or is the wall studded out?

best option is down to personal choice..
if you don't mind the mess and the decorating I'd go for the "sunk in the wall and capped over" method..
if you don't wan't the hassle, then the "surface conduit / mini-trunking" method is the way to go..

alternatively,and only as a last resort, if your upstairs lighting circuit has an earth, and you only fit a single socket clearly labled as "TV AMP ONLY", then you could connect it to the upstairs lighting circuit...
 
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Thanks guys, Coljack, yes my mistake about T&G, dear dear, The wall is timber frame and plasterboard, when I put the tv on the wall I screwed to the batons and used plasterboard fitting where the cavity was. I definitely do not want surface mounted so it looks like a hack out. Thanks Londonboy too, I do have an airing board full height too, the power in there though just goes to the control pad for the timer of rads and water though. There is also the pump I think that has a cable going to another surface mounted white box anygood?
 
ah my mistake then.. I took cavity to mean the gap between inner and outer walls, as in "cavity wall insulation"...

if it's a studwork internal wall then by all means run it in the studwork if you can ( might need a long drill bit to get through the center "noggin" that will be halfway up the wall. )
 
Coljack, that is brilliant, I owe you a pint, thanks for all your help. Finally Coljack, last questions I promise. Do i need to put the cable in any form of trunking in the stud cavity. Finally, If I go into the lighting and spur a socket, is this ok if I remove all connections if I sell the house and move, also while I am living here nothing will ever be plugged in as only i go on the loft?

Thanks again, what would we do without you guys???
 
Fingers crossed you might be able to drill down from the loft and push cable down the cavity and poke your hand in the hole in the T&G and retrieve it.
 
It's only a TV AMP :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
It uses next to no electric, so why not save yourself some work and bung it on the upstairs lighting (so long as an earth is present that is)
 
Because someone will probably come along with a 3kw heater or something daft
 
you could use an Electric Clock Connector on the lighting circuit

It's a very small plug and socket with a small fuse in it. Sometimes used for extractor fans, since no-one uses mains powered electric clocks any more

the plug is held in with a screw to stop it falling out

no other plug will fit.

Or more common, a flex outlet with a neat label on it (no socket)
 
Because someone will probably come along with a 3kw heater or something daft
And the MCB will say no! No problem then. ;)

Recently done this in my grandad's house, added a single socket on the lighting circuit. Its only lightly loaded (maybe 300w total lamp load) therefore a single socket powering an amplifier is nothing.
 
if the amp has a plug on a cord, rather than a plug integrated with a wall-wart type psu, then you could use a round pin socket; which'd stop people plugging an electric heaters. Unless they were really dedicated and put a round pin plug on the heater.
 

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