grid switches

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Getting grid switches installed. Spark from work is coming to test and put together but im doing donky work. Its going to operate cooker hood, hob and maby plinth and pelmet led lights. And the other side of room for washing machine and dryer.

The plinth and pelmet lights will either be connected from a spur intoa 3 amp fsu where it becomes 1mm then up to a 2 gang llight switch then down under floor ( if can get access) to other wall where it goes into a socket for pelmet then 1mm up to a double socket where it does the cabinet lights . Lights have transformers and output is 0.5 and 1.0. .

If can't get under floor it will get run of grid switch . On that wall there is two 32 circuits . One has 4 mm cable into a socket then a ring of 2.5mm feeding 2 double sockets and a spur. But now getting replaced with 3 double sockets. 3 singles . The grid switch will be servicing the 3 singles. Mk double poles will be used . And ran to the devices thro a fcu with appropriate fuse rating. Cpc will be reinstated to all sockets on that cable. Then back to the first socket. Spark is going to upgrade my cu when here
 
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Im just running cables iin wall as its bare studs then plasterboarding. He will be connecting up then testing.he cant spend time on it and to save money in doing cabling. I will leave loads incase he wants to take it to cu
 
OK. Here goes.

Getting grid switches installed.
Do you really mean Grid Switches?
upload_2016-6-24_13-10-10.jpeg


Its going to operate cooker hood, hob and maby plinth and pelmet led lights. And the other side of room for washing machine and dryer.
It is unlikely you can operate the hob (unless it's not worth having) with a grid switch..

The plinth and pelmet lights will either be connected from a spur
They will, by definition, be spurs.
intoa 3 amp fsu
No point having a grid switch to an FCU; the fuse will be in the grid.
where it becomes 1mm then up to a 2 gang llight switch
You do not need another switch.
then down under floor ( if can get access) to other wall where it goes into a socket for pelmet then 1mm up to a double socket where it does the cabinet lights
Why do you need all these sockets? .
Lights have transformers and output is 0.5 and 1.0.
Amps?

If can't get under floor it will get run of grid switch
???

On that wall there is two 32 circuits . One has 4 mm cable into a socket then a ring of 2.5mm feeding 2 double sockets and a spur.
Why not just continue the 4mm² in a radial?
But now getting replaced with 3 double sockets. 3 singles .
That's Ok.
The grid switch will be servicing the 3 singles.
You cannot have more than one socket on a grid switch - apart from the fact that that is why you would install grid switches.
Mk double poles will be used
Irrelevant.
And ran to the devices thro a fcu with appropriate fuse rating.
The appliances will have fuses in their plugs.
Cpc will be reinstated to all sockets on that cable.
What do you mean reinstated? Where is it now?
Then back to the first socket.
?

Spark is going to upgrade my cu when here
Ok. Have him design your circuits before that, then.
 
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Hi. The hob is gas. It will be the sparker that's plugged in. The two sockers for lights are for the two transformers that are 0.5 amps and the one for pelmet at 1 amp. So was thinking if after a fcu can add sockets ( if it comes of grid) . The switches I was getting is 3 separate one. For 3 separate behind the cabinet sockets. And the grid for isolation . I will get some 4mm. Sparks at the maldieves till 9 th next month
 
It is unlikely you can operate the hob (unless it's not worth having) with a grid switch..
Or unless it's a gas hob and the switch is for the ignition...

As for the rest of it all - his post is a mix of daft ideas and CBA-to-struggle-to-understand-badly-written-stuff.

So let's cut to the chase:

I being the person responsible for the design, construction, inspection & testing of the electrical installation (as indicated by my signature below), particulars of which are described above, having exercised reasonable skill and care when carrying out the design, construction, inspection & testing hereby CERTIFY that the said work for which I have been responsible is to the best of my knowledge and belief in accordance with BS 7671:2008, amended to 2015 except for the departures, if any, detailed as follows:

G1zm0 - who is going to sign that?

And does the work need a warrant?
 
Ok grid switches will b done away with. 4 mm wull run radial . The cabinet lights will just work from a fsu. And hob ect switches just attatched to frame of units .spark will test work
 
How do yous propose I do the switches if installing. Could take pelmet lights of a spur into a fcu but would like it to run it from liggt socket
 
Ok. You know What i ment. Switch. Gong to run it as ring main 4 mm And leave legs for spark to connect . And spur off for hood ect. Not doing grid switches now . .
 
I being the person responsible for the design, construction, inspection & testing of the electrical installation (as indicated by my signature below), particulars of which are described above, having exercised reasonable skill and care when carrying out the design, construction, inspection & testing hereby CERTIFY that the said work for which I have been responsible is to the best of my knowledge and belief in accordance with BS 7671:2008, amended to 2015 except for the departures, if any, detailed as follows:
 
Ok i know whats being said. But for all The work to get carried out would cost about 700 pounds. Ive not got that type of money. If i put wires in but not connected to the switches in a radial . Then spark can test and verify the design. Cable would be taking same route as old one. So i wouldnt be connecting anything up. I allready nees to payout 200 pounds for my hob to get connected to gas and 150 for worktop mitre. So a feq quid on cable placement is good. Will show him design when he gets back incase it needa changed
 

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