Hard wired or 3 pin plug for oven

[roseclare]

ve just bought a second hand New World single electric fan oven. The chap who I bought it off says he has used it with a 3 pin plug. New World say ii is a 13 A installation but should be hard wired.

The oven is 2.3KW and the grill is 1.6KW. Does the combined total of 3.9KW mean it should be hard wired? Or, if the oven and grill can not operate together at the same time does it mean it is a max of 2.3KW and can be operated on a 3 pin plug?

Confused or what.....

 

[Diyisfun]

Max load 2.3Kw

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Can't see why they would say that 13A cooker should be hardwired, but I would go with the MI.
Do you have the model number so can look up for some spec.
I calculate you need at least 15A after diversity, with the combined values of grill and oven.
If max load is 2.3kW then 13amp would be fine.

 

[roseclare]

Can't see why they would say that 13A cooker should be hardwired, but I would go with the MI.
Do you have the model number so can look up for some spec.
I calculate you need at least 15A after diversity, with the combined values of grill and oven.
If max load is 2.3kW then 13amp would be fine.

 

[securespark]

If the control for the oven means you cannot have the oven and grill on at the same time, then 13A is OK.

But if you can, put it on its own circuit.

 

[ericmark]

Although the 13A socket was designed to give 13A to electric fires since it's first design there have been some slight changes and it is really on the edge to provide a continuous 13A. The oven in the main does not need a continuous supply, but it would need the plug to be an area with free air to cool the fuse inside the plug which does emit some heat.

Since the regulations state that items over 2kW should be on a dedicated supply and not supplied from the ring so it would be hard for any manufacturer to state otherwise. However there are also plugs and sockets which don't have a fuse so would not have a heat problem and to have a plug and socket arrangement does aid maintenance.

The problem is the blue plug and socket is on the large side so may not be room and the Euro type are reversible so don't comply with UK regulations.

So I would say there is no problem using a 13A plug and socket providing they are in free air. Since the fuse connection unit (FCU) is always where there is access, I can see why a manufacturer would recommend them. I have seen many times 13A sockets which are not in free air. Personally if not in free air and you want it to be unplug-able for maintenance I would use the old 15A socket which since it has no fuse does not heat up except under fault conditions. Of course will need a dedicated supply on no more than 16A MCB.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Since the regulations state that items over 2kW should be on a dedicated supply and not supplied from the ring so it would be hard for any manufacturer to state otherwise.

The regs do not exactly say that.
There is an appendix 15 (Informative) where it says that one of the ways of reducing the load on ring final circuits could be to remove loads of 2KW or more. But this is guidance (good guidance too) but not an absolute regulation.

 

[Astra99]

I'm digressing, but to pick up on the comment regarding European plugs and sockets being unsuitable due to lack of polarisation, would not the French socket, with the male earth pin be suitable? Also, if you compare the size of the pins on the Schuko (16A) plugs with those on the old BS646 15A, the 15A (from memory!) are more than twice the diameter!!!

 

[Spark123]

The reason polarisation doesn't matter with the foreign plugs I believe is that the fuse for the supply is at the consumer unit and are wired as radials and each radial has a smallish fuse.
I don't believe the regs prohibit any load over 2.3kw being attached to a ring, it is just a recommendation made in an appendix.

The pins on the BS546 plugs are a lot wider diameter than foreign counterparts and a fair chunk wider than the blue ceeform pins too.