Have I Gone Overboard-Pipe Sizes

I use chrome plated copper stubs if i do towel rails and find it so much quicker to anneal the pipe and flare it and slap an MF / street elbow into it, there is no chrome removal involved.
 
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F and r from behind the centre of the rad is the way forward.no pipes out the floor,no need for exact measurements of tad size,projection etc on a first fix.only minimal pipe work on show at the rad valve
 
F and r from behind the centre of the rad is the way forward.no pipes out the floor,no need for exact measurements of tad size,projection etc on a first fix.only minimal pipe work on show at the rad valve
Thanks for that, have you a link to them OR what name do they go by?

Cheers Mick.
 
Worked on a new install in a 10+ million pound house in Highgate a while back.

The spec was the rads and t.rads were to have final connections in 'chrome plated' copper.

One fitter used compression fittings under floor and behind stud walls. I scraped off chrome and soldered, which I believe is better. Unless its on show, then I'd use a chrome finished compression fitting.
 
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F and r from behind the centre of the rad is the way forward.no pipes out the floor,no need for exact measurements of tad size,projection etc on a first fix.only minimal pipe work on show at the rad valve

This is fine with a new build and dry lining.
Not many would want to chop out solid walls on an old house with 9-12" skirtings.
 
If your going for a F & R from behind the rad and the wall is rendered not dot and dab what method are you using to terminate from the wall to the rad, or is it out of sight out of mind ;)

Cheers Mick.
 
What I'm meaning is, would you have a wall mounted outlet feeding directly to each rad valves or bury a 90o elbow or use those gizmo's that terminate into a custom made housing ?

Mick.
 
If your going for a F & R from behind the rad and the wall is rendered not dot and dab what method are you using to terminate from the wall to the rad, or is it out of sight out of mind ;)

Cheers Mick.

If it's me,personally chop a channel about 25mm deep,use 10mm speedfit band strapped to the wall.

Make sure there's enough pipe to go up the wall,slow bend back toasted the bottom of the rad and into the valves using 10mm Drayton elbows.no joints,continual pipe.
 
Hi LC ... sounds good, I have 15 mm to each rad, but I get the idea, is this something you've done, any air locks should soon shift.

I intend coming out of the floor using those 90o bend profiles to eliminate a joint under the finished floor, I could go straight up the wall and eliminate the vertical stabs, sounds good.

Cheers Mick
 
If we're altering/moving/installing new rads and there building work or a plasterer on site I wouldn't pipe a rad any other way.

Just done a 20rad house and the guy loves it as there no pipes coming out the floor to his rads,less things for the wife to hit with the Hoover apparently
 
If we're altering/moving/installing new rads and there building work or a plasterer on site I wouldn't pipe a rad any other way.

Just done a 20rad house and the guy loves it as there no pipes coming out the floor to his rads,less things for the wife to hit with the Hoover apparently
I could fit false stabs through the floor just to give the Wife something to aim for. :LOL:

Cheers Mick.
 

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